SARAH GRAHAM METALSMITHING

As we stroll within the lush surroundings of the Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, California, we learn that it is bigger than New York's Central Park, and was once an expanse of sand dunes more than 130 years ago. We explore the park's Conservatory of Flowers and the five-acre Japanese Tea Garden, which is one of the oldest Japanese gardens in the United States. California is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Sarah Graham.

Since the start of my blog--and I have already expressed this--the dedication and love jewelry designers have for their craft is a true inspiration.

Seeing a carefully structured culmination of training, varied influences, education, and innovative ideas is amazing to me. I enjoy observing how individual the design of each artist is even though the artists use the exact same materials.

Maybe he or she works predominantly with gold, diamonds, or semi-precious stones, in the end each designer will bring something unique to his or her designs. Such is the case with Graham.

In my opinion, Graham's creations are an evolution in what I have come to expect in fine jewelry. She takes a very open, free stance on design creating a striking yet simple aesthetic. She works primarily with 18-karat yellow gold, and small, white or cognac diamonds set against inky, blackened steel.

The organic, sculptural shapes honor forms in nature and hint at Mediterranean influences. The contrast of high gloss and blackened metals generates a distinctive edginess that is sexy and sophisticated.

The provocatively titled Spear Collection--Graham's pieces for men--is described by the designer as "functional ornamentation." One of her designs is a carabineer ring for keys. Intellectual visionaries Nicolai Tesla, Ernst Haeckel, and George Washington Carver inspired the sterling silver accented, blackened steel pieces.

Graham literally walked into a world of jewelry while working for a jewelry retailer. Captivated by the artistry of the designs surrounding her, on days off she trained alongside the store's bench jeweler.

After a year, Graham left the store to take a two-year, world tour of museums, galleries, and stores of Africa, Europe, Central and South America, and India. Upon returning to the United States, she kept busy studying International Business at the University of San Diego and earning a B.S. degree. She later began a two-year apprenticeship in Carmel, California with renowned German jeweler and goldsmith, Ronald Hentges.

Graham's time with Hentges proved to be a fruitful period, as she learned time-honored jewelry-making techniques. Using her training, over a few years Graham began her first advent into jewelry designing; working for several of the most celebrated jewelers in San Francisco. By 2000, she was ready to build her own company, Sarah Graham Metalsmithing.

All of Graham's hard work and dedication immediately started to pay off. In 2001, she was the recipient of JCK's Rising Star Award, and in 2003 was the runner-up of the Mort Abelson New Jewelry Designer of the Year Award.

Though enjoying the success and critical acclaim, Graham struggled with an internal conflict over African diamonds, specifically the highly controversial blood diamonds. "I found myself faced with enough disheartening facts that I seriously considered boycotting African diamonds," she recalls.

"After a solemn discussion with my husband, I took into consideration that diamonds are essential to the economy of Africa, and to boycott all of the diamonds would be taking away the diggers' ability to prosper. In that light, I could not, in good conscience, boycott all African diamonds, but I embargoed conflict diamonds."

Graham carries out the embargo by requiring her suppliers to comply with the Kimberley Process. "It is a process adopted as law by 69 countries and backed by the United Nations, in which all diamond traders must ensure their stones were not used to fund conflicts against governments. It is not a perfect solution, but it provides a greater chance for Africans in diamond rich regions for a healthier, safer, and prosperous life."

Graham's distinctive creations have been featured in an extensive number of publications including JCK Luxury, Splendora, Modern Jeweler, and InStyle.

Actor Kim Basinger wore Graham's 18-karat white gold, Triple Wide Oyster Diamond Band (shown above) as a wedding band in the 2004 feature film Cellular.
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Photo 1 (top right): 18-Karat Yellow Gold Wide Lace Cuff with White Diamonds
Photo 2 (center): 18-karat White Gold Triple Band Oyster Ring with Diamonds
Photo 3 (bottom left): 18-Karat Yellow Gold and Blackened Steel Coral Flower Ring with Cognac Diamonds

ULLA HORNFELDT JEWELLERY

The magnificent Royal Castle of Stockholm in Sweden, built with sandstone and brick, houses over 600 rooms and functions as the reigning king's, Karl XVI Gustaf, workplace. Among other duties, his majesty holds nearly a dozen annual dinners and is protected by armed, royal guards at all times. Sweden is also the hometown of featured jewelry designer, Ulla Hornfeldt.

It is always fascinating to see the many professional roads taken by some jewelry designers before adding jewelry artist to their résumé. Architect, screenwriter, makeup artist, actor, model, fashion designer, and marketing executive are a sampling of the roads traveled. Of course, Hornfeldt is not an exception.

Utilizing her brilliant, studious mind, Hornfeldt worked for several years in the early 70s gathering scientific data for cancer research. Her research spanned the globe as she worked in laboratories in Stockholm, Berlin, Chicago, and London and she co-wrote close to a dozen dissertations on immunology.

By 1977, she made a 180-degree turn enrolling in London's Sir John Cass School of Art studying jewelry and silversmithing. Upon graduating five years later, Hornfeldt set up a workshop in New York's Greenwich Village participating in the city's Contemporary Swedish Silver Exhibition.

Unembellished, sleek geometric forms in silver were Hornfeldt's initial jewelry creations; however, in subsequent years she began implementing 18 and 22-karat gold, and spectacular gemstones like green malachite, aquamarine, beryl, rock crystals, and the always breathtaking blue lapis. Hornfeldt's current designs blend clean, architectural lines with these magnificent semi-precious stones that are cut to fit the design layout. She manages to maintain the stones' chunky, organic shapes and finishes, which provide great texture. Many of her designs, particularly some brooches and pendants, are picturesque resembling unusual landscapes and seascapes.

Hornfeldt has since established a workshop in Camden Town, London and in the last 27 years has participated in numerous exhibitions across the globe. Regular exhibitions of Hornfeldt's contemporary jewelry take place at the Jackie Chalkley Gallery in Washington, D.C.; the Roger Bilcliffe Gallery in Scotland; the Lesley Craze Gallery in London, England; and the Design Yard in Dublin, Ireland.
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Photo 1 (top center): Lapis Brooch in Silver
Photo 2 (bottom center): Rock Crystal Necklace with 18-Karat Gold Accents

SANDRA MARDINI JEWELRY DESIGN

There is no mistaking the elegant yet powerful beauty of the Washington Monument in Washington, D.C. Architect Robert Mills, in honor of the first U.S. President George Washington, designed the century plus obelisk in 1836. Construction began on the 550-foot tall structure 12 years later--161 years ago--on July 4. Washington, D.C. is also the current home of featured jewelry designer, Sandra Mardini.

Of Palestinian descent, Mardini's beautiful jewelry holds a sumptuous Mediterranean flair. The luminous, semi-precious gemstones she uses take center stage; and although her unique, handcrafted designs are understated, the stones explode with vibrant, succulent colors. There is a spectacular necklace made from lemon-yellow chalcedony; and her 2009 Winter Collection features a necklace made with coral stones that look exactly like pomegranate seeds!

By instilling her interest in the arts, Mardini's parents helped to set the foundation for their daughter's jewelry designing career. Travels abroad to Europe and her ancestral home in the Middle East opened her up to unique crafts, architecture and color combinations.

The exposure left an indelible mark inspiring Mardini as it shaped her design philosophy. "Jewelry says more about a woman's inner spirit than one can imagine," she says. "A woman can project her emotions, her mood without saying a word." In 2003, Mardini set up her workshop and company Sandra Mardini Jewelry Design.

Mardini's instinctive gift for jewelry making is extraordinary. She takes an eclectic approach to each design, wrapping a luscious, pale blue agate stone in gold wire, setting lavender quartz side-by-side with accents of gold vermeil in between them, or suspending a pastel amethyst from a chain of gold vermeil.

The intensity of the colors, how the stones are arranged and cut is so rich and electric. The cut of the stones range from dewdrops to chunky to smooth, flat rectangles. I love color, and I love how she creates designs without the jewelry taking on an overpowering presence.

Mardini created a special pink jewelry collection to commemorate her mother, Siham Mansour, who died in 1997 from breast cancer. One hundred percent of sale proceeds go to the Libby Ross Foundation to raise funds for cancer research.

Mardini's designs have been featured in Lucky and Brides magazines as well as various online fashion websites including DailyCandy.com, and Stylehive.com.

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Photo 1 (top center): Coral and Chalk Turquoise Necklace
Photo 2 (bottom left): Yellow Chalcedony and Moss Green Swarovski Crystal Necklace

MING DESIGN

As we move along Windsor Castle's sprawling 26 acres, we are mesmerized by the great sense of history and majesty. At over 900 years old, it is one of England's oldest castles and is a periodic residence of Queen Elizabeth II. It houses a grand collection of fine art including paintings by Gainsborough, Rembrandt, Rubens, and Canaletto. England is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Ming Lampson.

Individuality is important to many people from identical twins to next-door neighbors. A memorable mark of distinction can leave a lasting, lifelong impact on others, and the public's interest in custom-made, or bespoke jewelry, is becoming a growing trend in the jewelry industry.

At only 33 years of age, Lampson's journey to becoming one of Britain's leading bespoke jewelers is long, and distinguished. "I was given a bag of gemstone beads when I was a teenager. I had no idea what each one was but I was absolutely transfixed," she explains. "Jewelry can symbolize so much, and this symbol can last forever transcending generations. Gems and metals hold one's spirit."

Around age 21, Lampson began her jewelry journey working for Asian "stone dealers and jewelers. I learned how to sort and grade gemstones, and I learned the ancient techniques of metalwork."

She studied jewelry at London's Guildhall University; gemology at the Gemological Institute of America; and received a Diamond Diploma from the Gemological Association of Great Britain. Lampson also apprenticed with Jaipur jewelers. In 2007, she established her company, Ming Design.

Her diverse work experience greatly influences her delicately ornate and feminine jewelry. Asian architecture and symbolism play a major role in her princess themed collections. "I try to achieve a modern aesthetic with my jewelry, and the East and West influences are a part of my personal history," she says.

Using 18-karat white and yellow gold, emeralds, Tahitian pearls, rubies, and sapphires, Lampson creates remarkable jewelry. Her 18-karat yellow gold Mudra Pendant, from the Tibetan Princess Collection, is a beautiful representation of a ritual hand pose seen in art and sculpture of Buddhist deities.

The Superman Ring, from the Japanese Princess Collection, is a sublime item made with glowing yellow gold, and cylindrical, deep green emerald crystals that resemble mythological Kryptonian crystals. The ring seemingly pays homage to Japanese Emperor Hirohito (Showa) who died in 1989 and was a devoted fan of the black-and-white t.v. series Adventures of Superman, which starred the late George Reeves.

Her interpretations of ancient dragon symbolism, such as the Dragon Chasing Flame Pearl, and a famous painting of renowned Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai are breathtaking. Lampson's dedication to creating such magnificent custom-made pieces is equally awe-inspiring.

Getting a design just right, remaining specific to a client's personal history and personality--while also adhering to their budget--is of utmost importance to her.

"One of my clients wanted a green-blue gem; the color of the sea in which she and her husband dived into. It took months and dozens of stones before I found a match."

Lampson relishes the creation of uniquely special pieces, "To have something and to know you're the only one in the world who has it, to me that is the ultimate luxury."
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Photo 1 (top right): 18-karat Yellow Gold Lake Palace Cuff from the Indian Princess Collection
Photo 2 (bottom left): 18-karat Gold Golden Carp Earrings with Crystals Drops from the Chinese Princess Collection

SUSANNE FRIIS BJORNER

Today we visit Denmark's Botanical Garden and Natural History Museum, which houses over 23,000 plants from every corner of the world including the Galapagos Islands, Madagascar, Norway, and Denmark. Denmark is also the birthplace of featured jewelry designer, Susanne Friis Bjorner.

Copenhagen's trendy Pandora charm jewelry is not the only popular jewelry style to come from the city. Having made Brazil a place to call home--a country renowned for its extraordinary gemstones--it comes as no surprise that Bjorner became a gemologist.

Her professional journey would not stop there; for several years she successfully, and anonymously, designed jewelry for a number of jewelry companies. By 1991, she decided to branch out on her own establishing her company, which she named after herself.

Pursuing a legal education Bjorner's daughter, Benedicte, enjoyed following high-fashion trends in her spare time. Offering her mother assistance in setting up the company would prove fateful. Benedicte discovered she could not resist becoming a part of her mother's journey.

Working as a team, Susanne, and Benedicte design baubles inspired by Copenhagen, worldwide travels, art, and fashion. The Bjorners strive to create eye-catching, standout jewelry featuring a spectrum of gemstones that include ethereal, clear diamonds, powerful Mediterranean blue topaz and orange carnelian, as well as pastel crystals. The vibrant stones are set in designs fashioned from 14-karat and 24-karat gold vermeil, silver and solid gold.

The beautiful jewelry is popular in Asia, the United States, and Scandinavia, and has been featured in layouts for Woman and Cosmopolitan magazines.

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Photo 1 (top right): Gold Plated Five-Ring Earrings with Rose Quartz
Photo 2 (bottom left): Gold Plated Locket Pendant with Smoky Quartz

SABIDO & BASTERIS

Today we explore the incredible Mayan ruin Palenque in Chiapas, Mexico. Once categorized as an Atlantean outpost, Palenque's remarkable temples--the Temple of Inscriptions, the Temple of Jaguar, and the Temple of the Sun--are architectural wonders covered with colorful motifs reminiscent of Asian art. Mexico is also the home base of jewelry company Sabido & Basteris.

The artistic dexterity of Mayan ruins and their well-preserved paintings became a powerful fascination to Italian-Mexican Victor Sabido Basteris. His trip to the temples served as the catalyst for building his company, and creating jewelry made with lasting, eco-friendly materials.

"The Maya had found the way to make lasting color art out of natural materials," Basteris explains. "In setting a foundation for my company, I wondered if we could rediscover that lost skill."

Sabido & Basteris' unique jewelry is a feast for the senses with its fresh, vivid colors, and wonderful textures. Basteris applies fade-resistant dyes, made from combined minerals, to recycled silver threads for his breathtaking Filo D' Argento Collection. The designs featured in this collection highlight intricate, weaving techniques resulting in innovative and distinctive pieces.

Basteris' other collections are clearly inspired by nature's wonders; at one turn, you will see an organically structured necklace or bracelet drenched with distinctive stones, like jasper and jade. At another turn, you will see the glistening shapes of delicate flowers carved from Mother of Pearl.

"I regard life as a gift. The ocean, for instance, plays such an important role that it is impossible not to find it irresistible," Basteris acknowledges. "The ocean is intriguing, powerful, soothing, full of colors, and unpredictable. I have found inspiration in the splendor of natural elements."

Basteris has attended trade shows around the world presenting his gorgeously artistic trinkets. He has represented his company at the Glamroom in Vicenza, Italy, the Expojoya in Mexico, and JCK in Las Vegas, Nevada.

Basteris is also undeterred by the global economic situation. "I regard these times as a great opportunity to position the company as an alternative in the world of fine jewelry. Offering totally new and original designs is the key to success," he explains.

"Innovative design must be coupled with a well thought out marketing plan. It is tempting to cut back on marketing in a downturn, but you need to build for the future, to position yourself now in order to be ready for better times."

Sabido & Basteris actively supports charitable causes, designing silver cuff links, bracelets, and pendants to raise funds for Mexico's La Casa de la Amistad, a foundation that assists children with cancer.

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Photo 1 (top right): Item from the Filo D' Argento Collection made with Dyed Silver Threads
Photo 2 (bottom left): Item from Aqua D' Argento Collection made from Mother of Pearl

MADELAINE MAYER | MRMR DESIGNS

Today we visit Tompkins Square Park in Manhattan, New York. Named for former Vice President Daniel D. Tompkins, the park's tumultuous and dramatic reputation has settled down in recent years. Today the park's family-friendly 10.5 acres houses handball and basketball courts, playgrounds, and outdoor chess tables. New York is also the hometown of featured jewelry designer, Madelaine Mayer.

Mayer's design approach is not only concerned with the careful selection of materials but also the creation of jewelry specific to each woman.

"Jewelry should perfectly suit the woman wearing it. It should be just the right length, just the right stones, and just the right composition for each individual," she explains.

Mayer's purposefulness and forethought even resonates in the name selections chosen for her custom-made pieces. The monikers of Greek deities, like Clio and Aeolus, add a wonderful touch of fantasy and spiritual symbolism.

Jewelry has been a longtime fascination for Mayer, "I have always made and loved jewelry ever since I was a little girl," she says. Over the years, however, Mayer periodically experimented with different materials and jewelry styles, but eventually she stopped making jewelry.

She attended the Georgia Institute of Technology where she received a Masters Degree studying her other passion, architecture. She subsequently landed a position with the firm Mitchell Giurgola Architects in New York.

Though not as prevalent, her jewelry-making inclinations never faded and in 2000, she studied jewelry design at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology. Eight years later, while preparing for a friend's wedding, she had an epiphany.
"I made an endless rope of pearls to wear to a friend's wedding," she recalls. "I was so busy studying architecture I hadn't made any jewelry in several years, and I had forgotten how much I loved the art of making jewelry. I started getting daily compliments on that necklace and that was it; MRMR Designs was born."

Mayer's passion for architecture could not be expelled from her. Her ethereal, exquisite designs are influenced by ideologies of form and structure.

"I like clean lines, balanced forms, and absolute durability. If a piece can't stand up to my daily abuse and scrutiny, it doesn't make it in the line. One of the best compliments paid me was by a colleague who said that my jewelry pieces look like an architect designed them."

Mayer primarily works with sterling silver and an incredible array of semi-precious gemstones that range from the pale yellows of citrine to the milky violet hues of amethyst.

Mayer's extensive knowledge of gemstones highly affects her jewelry making philosophy. "There are stones, like the green amethyst, which most women have not seen, and they are so delicate and lovely," she enthuses.

"There are so many more amazing shapes, colors, and types of pearls out there. I think beautiful, high quality, and unique pieces should be accessible to all women."

On Monday, September 21, 2009, Mayer will display her beautiful trinkets at the Fall 2009 Trunk Show of New York's Fashion Week. She also participated in the 3rd Annual Architects by Day, Jewelry Designers by Night jewelry show.
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Photo 1 (top right): Leda Earrings with Blue Quartz Briolettes
Photo 2 (center): Hand Woven Triple Sterling Silver Anteros Bracelet with Citrine Cabochons
Photo 3 (bottom left): Estarte Necklace with Citrine Briolettes on Sterling Silver Chain

SURA JEWELRY

A former meeting place for kings, princes, emperors, and dukes, today we visit the resplendent Beyerbeyi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey. Built by Armenian architects during the mid-19th century under the order of Sultan Abdulaziz, the palace houses crystal chandeliers from France, oil paintings, and porcelain vases. Turkey is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Yeliz Titiz.

During the 16th century, it was customary for Ottoman artisans to implement gemstones and precious metals to not only jewelry but also functional items like utensils and book covers.

Titiz' designs magnificently capture this bold and complex approach. No stranger to fashion, Titiz' family owns a popular apparel company in Istanbul. Her interest in exquisite jewelry began during travels throughout Europe. She developed a magnetic attraction to antique jewelry, collecting an assortment of trinkets during her travels.

Inspired by Istanbul's inherent beauty, in 2007 Titiz established her company Sura Jewelry named for an ancient, Byzantine city. The gorgeous, majestic, and feminine jewelry is fit for a queen. It is a testament to the techniques of ancient Ottoman craftsmen while also incorporating modern aesthetics.

In fact, Titiz works closely with skilled Turkish artisans who fashion her designs from richly colored, semi-precious gemstones, and brass and silver immersed in 24-karat gold. Gemstones range in color from blue agate to red tourmaline and every color in between including sunflower yellows, and autumn oranges.

The pieces are bulky and ornate making them sumptuous and eye catching. Her cuffs, in particular, are bold with various styles that include complex floral motifs, and corset shapes accented with spectacular, large stones (in some cases the stones are uncut).

Keeping in step with the traditional jewelry of the country, even the more understated pieces, such as single-stone pendants, have immense presence and power.

Former fashion model Nancy Alexander sells Sura Jewelry from her website ShopTerrene.com. An avid traveler, Alexander created the site to showcase one-of-a-kind jewelry made by international artisans and sell the pieces at affordable rates.

Publications featuring Titiz' jaw dropping designs include Six Degrees, Ocean Drive, Glamour, People en Español, InStyle Hair, and Florida.
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Photo 1 (top right): 24-Karat Gold-Dipped Brass Ece Earrings with Turquoise Drops
Photo 2 (bottom left): 24-Karat Gold-Dipped Sevda Cuff with Pearl Accents

CONSTANZE SCHREIBER

Today we stand within the majestic walls of Germany's Mespelbrunn Castle. Its hidden location in a Bavarian valley protected it through World Wars I and II, and it is considered one the country's most beautiful castles. Its halls are filled with gorgeous columns with carved angels, masks, and rosettes. Germany is also the hometown of featured jewelry designer, Constanze Schreiber.

A photo of Schreiber's skull bracelet was the first piece I saw from her unusual jewelry collections. To be frank, I found the spooky, drawn faces of the skulls rather creepy. As I read about her, and viewed more of her pieces I recognized the expansive themes she conveys through her jewelry.

Working with porcelain, fine silver, copper, ceramics, silk, plastic, steel, iron, and fur, Schreiber bases her unconventional designs on traditional antique jewelry. "I focus mainly on pieces out of the 19th and 20th centuries particularly protective amulets that remind the wearer of his or her mortality," she says.

Ethereal flowers structured from white silk, and silver, beautifully designed fur necklaces, as well as the skull pieces each serve as manifestations and/or interpretations of themes ranging from remembrance to love to death to fear. Often times a single piece is a representation of two or more symbols.

Having studied jewelry design and goldsmithing in the Netherlands and Denmark, Schreiber has a joyous fascination with exploring unusual materials, textures, ideas, and symbols. "I believe there is a crucial truth in the symbols and archetypes of the past that are still valid today. I see them as attempts by human beings to give form to essential themes."

Schreiber's unique jewelry will definitely engage those who see it, and her pieces have been exhibited in the Museum of Applied Arts in Denmark, the Gallery Funaki Connect in Australia, and the Gallery Ornamentum in Chicago.

"I am intrigued by the beauty and power of symbolic meanings," Schreiber explains. "The symbolic meanings make the pieces so powerful for me. I am searching for a contemporary continuation of traditional jewelry."

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Photo 1 (top right): Fine Silver and Silk Flower Necklace with 18-Karat Gold Accents
Photo 2 (bottom left): Katharine Necklace made from Fur, Silver and Lead

SIMON COTTRELL

The Red Sand Garden, the Eucalypt Walk, and the Dry River Bed are just a few of the various landscapes found within Melbourne, Australia's Royal Botanic Gardens. One other attraction located on the grounds is the National Herbarium of Victoria, which contains over one million-plant specimen. Australia is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Simon Cottrell.

All jewelry is engaging no matter the style or type of materials used. It captures your attention causing you to marvel at its design. Cottrell's jewelry and objects are not beautiful in a conventional sense, but the forms are undoubtedly intriguing.

Cottrell is a graduate of the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology University (RMITU), receiving a Bachelor of Arts in Goldsmithing and Silversmithing, as well as a Masters Degree in Fine Arts.

His designs possess an absorbing mechanical and futuristic aspect as he implements not only gold and sterling silver but also stainless steel, and Monel. Monel is a corrosion-resistant metal used to make musical instruments, ships, and pipes, and the metal seems to add a substantial, almost militaristic dimension to his pieces.

His mixed metal objects and jewelry appear to possess a puzzle-like, interlocking component as though he made individual parts and assembled them. Interestingly enough, my visual deconstructing or constructing is exactly the reaction Cottrell wants.

There is a distinct, somewhat scientific, intellectualism to his creative process. "It is attentiveness that enables us to understand the nature of cause and effect within the production of materials. The visual `simplicity' of an object contains a complexity within its structure," he explains.

"I am materializing my view of the `nature of things', which in turn is just giving you something to look at and hopefully bring you in closer. Getting accustomed to looking closely at small things, like jewelry, leads us to break down the components of something larger."

Cottrell is the recipient of RMITU's L. Puzsar Award for Best Jewelry Design in Gold and Silversmithing, the Johnson Mathey Award for Excellence in Silversmithing, and the Koodak Peoples Choice Award. Exhibitions of his innovative designs have been held in India, Singapore, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, London, the United States, Korea, and Germany.

Cottrell does not have a website at this time; however, you can view more of his objects and jewelry at Klimt02.net.
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Photo 1 (top right): Green Gold and Stainless Steel Tight Cluster Brooch
Photo 2 (bottom left): Sterling Silver Blob Brooch with Facetted Tubes

MEIRI ISHIDA JEWELRY & OBJECT

Built in the early 18th century, the Rikugien Gardens in Tokyo, Japan is a beautiful area with lush, green hills, a pond, and a weeping cherry tree. The garden's structure is patterned after Japanese waka poems, which are characterized by five lines. Japan is also the hometown of featured jewelry designer, Meiri Ishida.

Ishida's creations are essentially tactile textiles. Try saying that three times in rapid succession. That is quite a tongue twister. One look at Ishida's objects and jewelry made with multi-colored felt, gold and silver had the same effect. I was at a loss for words.

I like it when a designer goes with an unconventional design approach, setting himself/herself apart, establishing their individuality, and expanding their creativity.

A graduate of Tokyo's Tama Art University (T.M.U.), Ishida specialized in glass art, but her love of various textures and aesthetics led to lots of experimentation. Four years after graduating from T.M.U., Ishida attended the Alchimia School of Contemporary Jewelry in Florence, Italy, under the tutelage of Giampaolo Babetto, and Barbara Seidenath

Ishida's designs are full of color and whimsy. The multi-colored, horizontal pattern of the felt material she uses brings to mind winter attire: warm cozy mittens, sweaters, socks, and a skullcap.

Her jewelry is structured like standard necklaces or bracelets. "When the form, color, and tactile feeling are mixed with someone's personality, my jewelry is complete, and creates a new poetry," she says.

However, the objects she creates are altogether different. It is an unusual aesthetic and I enjoy her creative expression. Some objects appear to be silhouettes of rabbits, and the head and shoulders of people, while others are non-descript.

The silhouette cutouts are layered creating a three-dimensional aspect, and as you look closer, you can see that there is perhaps a centimeter's difference in size. This allows you to see levels of colors.

"Color, humor, mixture, and continuation, my work consists of these elements. Color especially is the transcendent sensation."

Some objects resemble a toddler's play toy; another resembles a floral arrangement, while yet another looks like a small bowl of salad.

Over the last seven years, Ishida's work has been featured in exhibitions around the world including the Florida Craftsmen Gallery in the United States, the Contemporary Art Center in the Netherlands, and the Galleria Marcolongo in Italy.
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Photo 1 (top right): Unnamed Felt Object (resembles salad)
Photo 2 (bottom left): Unnamed Felt and Gold Necklace

HOW TO WEAR JEWELRY

I am delving into a different topic again for this month's Splendor Sidebar. This month's topic is tips on how to wear jewelry. The content of my article is based on a few online editorials I read on the subject, and the suggestions do not necessarily reflect my ideas. Personally, I do not see ways to wear jewelry as being completely set in stone, but I thought some of you might find the information helpful.

Here's the scenario: you've put on a pair of dark jeans, and a button down, white blouse or an elegant, black dress and you want a little something extra to add a final touch. You gaze over to your jewelry box unsure of which piece adds the right complement.

According to online sources, you should keep in mind a number of factors when selecting that fabulous piece of jewelry: your age, build and height, the size and style of jewelry (bold or classic), as well as the type of jewelry (diamonds, pearls, etc.).

Taking into consideration what you are wearing also factors in the piece you select. If you are wearing anything with a bright print, wear clean pieces with classic designs.

Let's go back to our two examples. Simple, classic jewelry designs also work well with a casual outfit, such as the dark jeans and white blouse; although a single, bold piece like a gold necklace or chunky bracelet can provide an interesting complement.

The key here is selecting a single piece of jewelry. Wearing loads of jewelry of any kind is not the option to go with. A simple string of pearls (faux pearls too) looks stunning with a white blouse and an open collar. A gold necklace with a diamond pendant or a pop of color like coral or turquoise goes well with the elegant black dress.

It is said that long, dangly earrings look best with a straight, smooth hairstyle offset by a lean, long neck. However, small, button-type earrings are believed to look better on petite and stout women. Similarly, rings with slim bands complement slim fingers, while rings with large stones can cause small fingers to look even more diminutive.

Unless the rings are stackable, it isn't a good idea to wear multiple rings with various band sizes. If your jewelry is eclectic and was not bought as a set, the jewelry you choose should complement. The rule is--and it kind of goes without saying-- to wear a gold necklace with other gold pieces, although layering necklaces with varying lengths adds a nice, funky touch.

Ultimately, the bottom line is to wear jewelry that reflects who you are. If you have a take-charge personality wear bolder pieces. If your demeanor is understated, classic pieces will most likely appeal to you.

Sometimes pieces you choose reflect your mood. In her Ezinearticles.com article, Vicky Post said this, "Give your jewelry the same attention you give to the rest of your outfit, and make sure that whatever you wear, clothes or jewelry, that you are comfortable with the result."

ANZIE JEWELRY

The beautiful Zinnia flower is among the 20,000 plant species we will find at the Montreal Botanical Garden in Canada. The garden, built 73 years ago by Frére Marie-Victorin, houses over 32 greenhouses, and an array of flora that includes bromeliads, orchids, and begonias. Canada is also the hometown of featured jewelry designer, Anzie Stein.

Depending on the course of action a person chooses, life's challenges can become a foundation from which something positive can grow and flourish.

Such is the case with Stein, a former art instructor. In 1999, Stein's life turned upside down when her husband, Barry, was diagnosed with colorectal cancer.

Fraught with emotion, Stein turned to jewelry making as a way to release tension. "It was a good way to take my mind off something so scary," she says. What began as a stress reliever quickly became a crusade against the disease.

Working with crystals and inexpensive stones, Stein and her oldest daughter, Jaclyn, created the Lifesaver Bracelet, the proceeds from which were used to raise research funds for the Colorectal Cancer Association of Canada.

Daughter Jaclyn, who studies jewelry design at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.), mirrors her mother's sentiment, "The process of starting the company gave my family hope, gave us something to focus on, and gave my father hope."

In some instances, life's challenges have a happy conclusion and after numerous surgeries, Barry Stein is now cancer-free. Anzie, along with Jaclyn, continued learning about gemstones broadening jewelry styles, and ultimately establishing their company, Anzie Jewelry.

The items featured within their 11 collections, fashioned from 14-karat and 18-karat gold, and sterling silver, are breathtaking. There are plenty of pear-shaped and round cut stones, and all items are categorized as cool, warm, and neutral.

The cool items feature turquoise, purple amethyst, and blue topaz, while warm items highlight ruby, carnelian, and red coral. The neutral pieces feature citrine, black onyx, and clear topaz. Did I mention that the key focus is gemstones? Their color, their cut, their presentation; the gemstones are what stand out.

Inspirational, protective symbols, such as the Star of David, the Fatima Hand, and Evil Eye, are highlighted on some of the pendants; and the company's building block, the Lifesaver Bracelets, remains a best seller with funds going to research for ovarian and breast cancer as well as AIDS.

Anzie Jewelry has been featured in publications Elle and Bride magazines. News anchor Paula Zahn, and actors Vanessa Williams and Neve Campbell are high profile fans of the stunning jewelry. Anzie Jewelry is sold at Saks Fifth Avenue, and Holt Renfrow.

For more on Stein, and her company check out WatchMojo.com's video interview with the designer.


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Photo 1 (top right): Turquoise Soleil Pendant with 14-Karat Gold Accents and Chain
Photo 2 (bottom left): 18-Karat Gold Double Strand Cluster Necklace with Ruby Briolettes

HERNDON HEALD

Today we visit the Sante Fe Plaza in New Mexico, the place where politics, commerce, and social interests mesh. Originally constructed as a fort nearly 400 years ago, the Plaza houses the Palace of the Governors, which happens to be the oldest building in the United States. New Mexico is also the home base for jewelry company Herndon Heald.

The name Herndon Heald is a composite of three names: married couple Mark and Naomi Herndon, and Jeri Lynn Heald.

Seemingly brought together by fate, the trio crossed paths when they all set up homesteads in Sante Fe, New Mexico. "Mark and I moved here when he accepted a teaching job at a metalsmithing school," explains Naomi Herndon, who once apprenticed with Cartier. "I met Jeri Lynn while I was working for a jewelry company. One of us manages the business, one handles manufacturing, and one of us does the creating. Finding the right partners was number one."

Ultimately, the jewelry making skills of all three heavily influence each design. "We take inspiration from older jewelry," Naomi continues. "Jeri Lynn does a lot of weaving and crocheting techniques, Mark brings his expertise in Native American jewelry, and my background is sculpture."

The trio established their company just two years ago, and it is not without its share of challenges. "Some people think it's just about making pretty things, but it is like running a marathon sometimes every week," says Naomi.

One of the most important aspects of running their business is showing appreciation for the additional artisans they employ. "I had worked with a jewelry company that took a stance with the treatment of their employees I did not feel comfortable with," Naomi acknowledges. "We wanted to create a company in line with our morals."

The designers' refined jewelry possesses a distinct, East Indian flair such as their Novia Hoop Earrings made with sterling silver and dangling, pink tourmaline stones. The jewelry is divided into four major collections: yellow gold, sterling silver, rose gold, and mixed metals.

Pieces are offset with beautiful smoky quartz, labradorite, rubies, green chrysoprase, moonstones, and chalcedony. Many items feature what is notably the designers' signature touch: hammered paillete discs in gold or silver. "We make our own hammers for creating certain textures," Naomi says.

The jewelry is primarily minimalist, clean with neutral tones like pale greens, and creamy whites, although other items featured at Katybeh.com highlight designs with brilliant color.

Some pendants are suspended from leather cords; in fact, there are eye-catching leather items including the Leather Ladder Bracelet with pieces of silver riveted into the leather, and the Tie Me Up in Knots Bracelet, made with small, leather knots set between gorgeous, sage pearls. Overall, the collections are elegantly understated and great for the woman who doesn't like feeling overwhelmed by jewelry or high-end prices.

There's something else special about their pieces, their tag. "Our jewelry's tag bears an anvil with a heart symbol in it. We wanted something that is specifically us," Naomi offers.

"In the past, jewelry was passed down. We want to bring that back. It may be just a silver cuff, but it belonged to a great grandmother. Our tag lets our customers know the care taken to make each piece."

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Photo 1 (top right): Five-Strand Cascade Bracelet with Hammered Sterling Pailletes on Sterling Silver

Photo 2 (bottom left): Peruvian Opal Pathways Bracelet with 14-Karat Gold Bead and a Singe Pearl

ALI BALI JEWELLERY

In 1416, the Duke of Albany licensed James Dundas, of the well-known Dundas Clan, to build what would become the structure known as the Dundas Castle in Scotland. Some members of the Dundas Clan fought in a few of the country's historic battles alongside William Wallace, and Robert the Bruce. Scotland is also the hometown of jewelry designer, Alison Reid.

A full-time Human Resources Manager, Reid enjoys tapping into her creative side during her spare time. A self-described "crafty" person, in 2006 she got back into the habit of drawing to unwind at the end of a hectic day.

She also learned silversmithing, and is particularly fascinated with precious metal clay (PMC). "I love working with a variety of materials, predominantly silver. Precious metal clay is fantastic for textures, my eye is always roving looking for items to create brilliant textures in the clay," she explains. Reid uses PMC with silver particles that is supplied by a Japanese recycling company. "It's a fantastic environmentally friendly material to work with."

Reid also implements gorgeous, semi-precious stones like freshwater pearls--in various hues--pink agate, coral as well as Czech glass, and Swarovski Crystals. Her beautiful, hand made designs are straightforward in one instance such as her Swirling Silver Water Pink and Reds Necklace; and intricate in others like her Carnelian Sterling Silver Bracelet blending beautiful carnelian stones in a silver mesh.

It is amazing to know that jewelry making is a part-time endeavor for Reid, as there are plenty of items to choose from on her Etsy page; then again, she is not short on inspiration.
Her hometown of Edinburgh serves as a major source.

"We have wonderful beaches and countryside, which makes its way into my work. I'm also inspired by other designers, there is one in the UK who works with resin and silver," she says. "I also adore custom orders. I specialize in bridal custom jewelry. They give me the opportunity to try something new and I love a new challenge."

Reid also designs "keepsake" fingerprint jewelry for parents with children. These items, made from sterling silver, feature the fingerprint of a child or young adult set in the metal and fashioned into a charm for a bracelet, or pendant. "My end game is to produce a beautifully hand crafted item, which I am proud of."

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Photo 1 (top right): Carnelian Sterling Silver Mesh Bracelet with Carnelian Stones
Photo 2 (bottom left): Sterling Silver Water Pink and Peridot Necklace

TRICIA KIM

The palaces of Seoul, Korea are stunning architectural triumphs filled with history. Among the grand palaces is the Changdeok Palace, which consists of 13 buildings, 28 pavilions, 3 main areas, and is encircled by a park. Deoksu Palace is actually a compound of several palaces made with different materials and styles. Korea is also the birthplace of featured jewelry designer, Tricia Kim.

The healing properties of quartz and chalcedony, and uplifting symbolism serve as the intent behind Kim's elegant jewelry. Born in Korea, and reared in the United States, Kim instantly developed an appreciation for different aesthetics.

Her love for gemstones led to studies in fine arts, and sculpture at New York's Parsons School of Design, and School of Visual Arts, as well as the California College of Arts and Crafts.

Her educational journey would not stop there, in the early 90s, Kim apprenticed with a New York-based goldsmith. By 1997, she accepted a position as a designer with a Bali jewelry company.

After two years, Kim left the company traveling to India and Nepal. Inspired by the two countries' powerful architecture and history in 2000, she returned to Bali to establish her company Nagicia. Butterflies, dragonflies, and the legendary Naga dragon are key symbols in her pieces.

Working with both Javanese and Balinese artisans, there is a mesh of contemporary and traditional aesthetics. There is a beautiful Buddha head pendant carved from sky blue, rock quartz, and framed in 22-karat gold, as well as the gorgeous 22-karat gold Padma Ring.

Symbols of love and victory, Kim's masterful replications of butterflies and dragonflies are fashioned in sterling sliver. The ethereal, carved out pieces appear to be weightless, while the symbol of purity, the Lotus Flower, is fashioned from embossed silver.

Kim currently lives in Bali inspired by the rich, artistic talent of the craftsman she works with as well as the region's natural beauty. "I feel blessed to experience one of nature's gorgeous pristine spots."
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Photo 1 (top right): Sterling Silver Full Butterfly Pendant
Photo 2 (bottom left): 22-Karat Gold Devi Crown Rings with Emerald and Ruby Gemstones

PAWEL KACZYNSKI

Carnivorous plants are sure to get our attention as we visit Poland's oldest botanical garden, Krakow Botanical Garden. Among other areas of interest is the ominous 300-year-old Jagiellonian Oak Tree, and the astronomical observatory, which was the site of the country's first hot air balloon launch over 200 years ago. Poland is also the hometown of featured jewelry designer, Pawel Kaczynski.

Whatever metalworking technique Kaczynski implements to create his one-of-a-kind pieces has to be one of the best-kept trade secrets.

According to what I have read, he works entirely with steel, gold, bronze, and silver creating the most imaginative, innovative and visually stunning pieces I have seen. A graduate of Poland's Academy of Fine Arts, where he specialized in jewelry design, and a sculptor Kaczynski calls upon both aptitudes to express various types of forms.

He fashions metals in such a way that creates an assortment of textures resembling tree bark, crinkled fabric, leaves, flowers, pleated corsets, and even dreadlocks. Two of his remarkable bracelets simulate water and fire respectively. His ability to replicate the twist and coil of dreadlocked hair is amazing, while the metal in other pieces have the transparency of nylon.

He incorporates both vivid and neutral paint colors to complete and balance the metallic ridges and sculptural curves. His use of gemstones is minimal, making his work a unique example of how expressive metal can be by adding texture and hand-painted color.

Whether Kaczynski intended for his jewelry to be worn or displayed is not readily evident, but his pieces definitely fit into the high fashion, statement-making category. His pieces are an unmistakable display of immense talent and great artistry.

Kaczynski is a member of the Association of Goldsmithing Artists, and the Polish Sculptors Association.

He has held personal exhibitions of his avant-garde work in Poland, and Denmark, and participates in a group exhibition known as Group Six. Kaczynski, along with five other Polish jewelry designers, present their unique, innovative designs to the public.

Note: To see Kaczynski's incredible online galleries from his website, you will have to press the fullscreen key (F11) to select the different galleries located at the bottom left-hand side of the screen.
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Photo 1 (top right): Silver and Bronze Fire Bracelet
Photo 2 (bottom left): Steel and Silver Water Bracelet

BJÖRN WECKSTRÖM | LAPPONIA JEWELRY OY

Today we visit Finland's Oulu University Botanical Garden located at Linnanmaa Campus' north end. The garden provides the school's biology department with living specimens for research and educational purposes, while also serving as a lovely recreation area. Finland is also the birthplace of featured jewelry designer Björn Weckström.


A prolific sculptor, Weckström has created a myriad of forms in bronze, acrylic resin, and glass. He created his sculptures within an aura of eerily prophetic themes that include Greek mythology, the technology boom, and humanity's search for identity in the face of technological advances.

His sculptures are at once grotesquely poetic, strange, beautiful, and yet powerfully intriguing. Although his jewelry creations do not possess the same provocative quality, Weckström does bring the same lyricism to his jewelry designs.

At age 21, Weckström received a degree in goldsmithing from the Finnish Goldsmith School, and co-founded the company Lapponia Jewelry Oy seven years later.

After a customer gave him gold nuggets from an area in Finland known as Lapland, he became fascinated with gold's natural matte finish. With this in mind, he creates jewelry fashioned into elegant, organic forms accentuating the natural finish with minimal embellishment.

The pieces are free form in structure and some resemble randomly folded or crumpled strips of paper. It is amazing that he creates three-dimensional plaster molds for his jewelry, as they possess an uncanny, hand-sculpted appearance.

His style is distinctive, very clean, and ultra modern. He takes the same approach with his sterling silver creations; opting to highlight the natural, matte finish instead of high poliah, an accent he feels looks artificial.

His geometric even futuristic looking pieces would garner much attention. In 1976, a young Hollywood director contacted Weckström to purchase one of his necklaces to be worn by the lead female actor in a film he did not name.

In the final scene of Star Wars: A New Hope, actor Carrie Fisher wore a sterling silver design called Planetoid Valleys, as Princess Leia Organa.  Weckström was thrilled to have been a part of a film that would become one of the most influential movies ever made.

A limited number of these necklaces were made; however, Weckström has since designed a similar item, Galactic Peaks, which is sold from his website. In an interesting bit of irony, long before receiving the call from George Lucas, a few of Weckström's early bronze sculptures resemble a courser, edgier version of the See-Threepio character.

Currently living in Italy, Weckström has added professor to his list of titles; regularly lecturing at universities in the United States, the Far East, Europe, and Mexico.


Since 1963, his extraordinary body of work has been featured in galleries across the globe including Sweden, Canada, London, the United States, Australia, Japan, France, Italy, and Finland.
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Photo 1 (top right): 18-Karat Yellow Gold Lord of Insects NecklacePhoto 2 (bottom left): Sterling Silver Ygol's Cuff

TUAREG

There are many places of interest to explore in Mali, Africa. Contrary to popular belief, the ancient city of Timbuktu was once a hotbed of bustling commerce. Presently, camel caravans arrive in the city each year to distribute merchandise obtained from salt mines. The city of Djenné holds beautiful centuries-old mosques. Mali is also the region where the nomadic group known as Tuareg travel.

The nomadic families traveling along the Sahara Desert engaging in trade were coined Tuareg by French explorers. A fixture in many parts of Africa for over 2,000 years, the Tuareg were known for many things including a peaceful disposition to well-meaning passersby yet fiercely aggressive towards invaders.

The Tuareg are also highly revered for their immense silversmith skills passed down from generation to generation. Presently, Tuareg groups tend to settle in one area near wells to establish a homestead.

Traditionally the men of Tuareg families are silversmiths while the women excel at leatherwork. The women refused to wear gold jewelry, therefore silver trinkets were created instead; some sterling silver, some fine silver (99%). The designs Tuareg silversmiths create tell their personal history and lifestyle with symbolism.

Every aspect of a pendant's structure, for instance, reflects aspects of their culture. The pendant itself signifies a sultan's palace, while the placement of pearls represent outer territories' position in relation to the palace.

The Agade Cross was a familial neckpiece that Tuareg fathers passed down to their sons at puberty. The upright and transverse beams signifying the different paths or directions the young man's life could take.

The photographs within this post feature beautiful silver jewelry created by Tuareg families in Mali, who sell their items through The Hunger Site.

Ann Elston, a California-based attorney, established a website TuaregJewelry.com, which features the incredible work of silversmiths from another Tuareg group in Niger, the Koumama family.

For 8 years, Elston has worked with the remarkably gifted group of artisans to promote their jewelry, which provides them with sustainable income.
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Photo 1 (top right): Ebony and Silver Coin Cuff Bracelet
Photo 2 (bottom left): Sterling Silver Celebration Earrings

GEMSTONE OF THE MONTH - SAPPHIRE

A symbol of devotion to God and the mysterious planet Saturn, the magnetic, blue sapphire gemstone is widely known as the "Stone of Destiny."

The sapphire is derived from a non-red variety of the corundum mineral; the same mineral its twin, the ruby, originates from.

Sapphire also shares the ruby's tough, resistant exterior. According to folklore, it is believed The Ten Commandments were etched on sapphire tablets.

Sapphires are mined in many countries, including Australia, but the most exquisite medium-dark blue stones are found in Kashmir along the Himalayas.

Sri Lankan sapphires are a bit lighter than the Kashmir stones but still considered immensely beautiful. Some of the world's largest sapphires were found in Sri Lanka; however, the 61,500-carat Millennium Sapphire, found 14 years ago in Madagascar, currently holds the world record of largest sapphire.

Like many other gemstones, the color of sapphires varies and is not limited to shades of blue. There are clear, yellow, green, pink, and violet sapphires.

Aside from the medium-dark blue sapphire, the one other color variation considered just as valuable is called Padparadscha and is an orange-pink hue.

Everyone from clergymen of the Middle Ages to the late Princess Diana owned spectacular, blue sapphire rings. Among the world's most famous blue sapphires is the Logan Sapphire; a 423 carat stone found in Sri Lanka. It is mounted in a gorgeous brooch setting flanked by 20 round brilliant diamonds. The brooch is currently on display at the Smithsonian Institute.

Over the centuries, the ethereal blue stones were believed to protect its owners from the evil eye of envy, create peace between enemies, promote financial success, and cure sore throats.
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Photo 1 (top right): The Logan Sapphire Brooch

DENISE WALLACE

Rich with history and natural attractions, we walk along the Redoubt Lake Trail of Alaska's Sitka National Historical Park. Established nearly 100 years ago, the two-mile long "national monument" consists of giant Spruce trees, flowers, shrubs, and magnificent replicas of native totem poles including the Raven and a Bear, and the Village Watchmen. Alaska is also the ancestral home of featured jewelry designer, Denise Wallace.

Over the past few months, I have learned that every piece of jewelry is imbued with personal history. This is an inevitable aspect of designing, and of course, Wallace is no exception. Wallace's jewelry is beyond description.

To say it is beautiful feels inadequate as her personal history tells the story of a people. Seattle-born Wallace lived with her Aleut grandmother in Cordova, New Mexico after graduating from high school. "My grandmother used to tell me stories about how she grew up, how she lived. When I am planning my designs and sketching, I think about those stories," she says.

Absorbing her grandmother's recollections led Wallace to attend the Institute for American Indian Arts (I.A.I.A.) in Santa Fe, New Mexico. What Wallace learned about New Mexico's Native American culture as well as the Aleuts proved more than inspiration; this was her blood, her life, a spiritual link. In 1982, after graduating from I.A.I.A. Wallace set up a workshop with her husband, Samuel, an expert gem cutter.

Working alongside her husband, Wallace painstakingly creates distinctive works of art using traditional materials used by Aleuts such as fossilized walrus tusk, along with silver, 14-karat gold, and inlaid stones including beautiful lapis.

She also masterfully incorporates the jewelry making styles of Navajo and Hopi Indians. Ultimately, Wallace wanted to create jewelry that expressed the Aleut lifestyle of fishing and hunting, ancient symbols, and folk tales. For 10 years, after establishing her workshop, she produced an annual art show called "Visions of Alaska."

Wallace's most popular items are her storytelling belts--her interpretation of the Navajo Concho Belt--composed of beautifully detailed, linked figurines of Aleut people and Alaskan wildlife. These spectacular items are fashioned with hinges that reveal smaller, wearable items when pulled open.

Though designed with contemporary accents, the pieces clearly reflect Wallace's ancestral history making her pieces more than jewelry. I felt transported through time. The sense of history, the life and traditions of a people, the artisanship is mesmerizing.

A book by Lois Sherr Dubin entitled "Arctic Transformations: The Jewelry of Denise and Samuel Wallace," outlines the couple's development of their company that now include their children, Dawn and David.

"We [my husband and I] downsized and brought our kids into the business, teaching them what we are doing. Technically, they know everything that we know," Wallace says.

Wallace and her husband appeared in the PBS program "Craft in America," and her unique jewelry pieces have been regularly exhibited at the Anchorage Museum of History and Art, the Mingei International Museum of World Folk Art in California, and I.A.I.A.
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Photo 1 (top right): Sterling Silver Dancer Ring with Inlaid Lapis and Walrus Tusk
Photo 2 (bottom left): Sun-Moon Earrings made with 14-Karat Gold, Sterling Silver, Inlaid Ivory and Lapis

SIRILAK SAMANASAK

Chiang Mai in Thailand can easily be dubbed the "City of Temples," as over 300 Buddhist temples populate the city. Built for uniting people within the community, Chiang Mai temples are multifaceted acting as centers of culture, literature, history, religion, and art. Thailand is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Sirilak Samanasak.

Samanasak--also known as Khun Boom--possesses an infectious exuberance. At age 30, she readily embraces all that life has offered.

"My parents divorced when I was 5, and my father died 7 years later. I started working to help my mom with some loans. Even though I missed my father, I'm thankful for the experience because it made me stronger, and helped me to face challenges," she recalls.

"My mother took good care of me and my younger sister and she put us through school. She has such a beautiful heart and soul, and I am so grateful for her support."

Despite her challenges, Samanasak's love for art and design developed early with exposure to Thailand's incredible architecture and art. Fueled by her mother's love and support, she attended Chiang Mai's Institute of Technology receiving a degree in Fine Arts.

From there she exploded into the world of jewelry design accepting a position in 1998 with an exporter of silver and gold jewelry. "I learned about international aesthetics and designs. It gave me a broader inspirational base for my own design work."

In 2004, she accepted a position with a design house located in the United Kingdom. Here she designed an array of diverse, elegant pieces to compliment designer clothing. "I am so grateful for that opportunity. I gained so much knowledge and saw the world. An opportunity is like a lucky bird, it might come by just once or a few times, but when it does embrace it."

Samanasak's wealth of knowledge and exposure to varied aesthetics comes through in her pieces. There is no shortage of adjectives. Her jewelry is contemporary, minimalist, delicate, and quiet.

She has a remarkable ability to create buoyant, ethereal pieces such as the aptly named Sublime Earrings featuring pale blue chalcedony drops suspended from sterling sliver; and her Luminous Earrings with soft, rose quartz drops.

There are stunning, intricate pieces in gold vermeil offset with luscious garnet drops. Samanasak also incorporates a hint of edginess by suspending some of her pendants with a leather cord.

For her men's wristbands, such as her Floral Chimes Wristband, leather is no longer an accent but the focus. Understated, small floral patterns are etched into soft, brown leather and a small silver bell is incorporated as the band's fastener.

"My love for art is ingrained in my personality and it comes through in the care, love, and attention to detail that I put in every piece I design." Samanasak's pieces are sold at Novica.com.
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Photo 1 (top right): Gold Vermeil Forbidden Fruit Hoop Earrings with Garnet Drop
Photo 2 (bottom left): Subtle Necklace with Rose Quartz Drop and Sterling Silver Spiral