GINA PANKOWSKI - LATTIS DESIGN

Wanna eat dinner 500 feet about the ground? You are in for a real treat as we visit Seattle's Space Needle. Built over 40 years ago, it stands 605 feet tall, and a rotating restaurant overlooking the city is just 20 feet shy of the Observation Deck. Washington State is also the home of featured jewelry designer Gina Pankowski.

Pankowski, a skilled metalworker and solderer, creates jewelry that easily captures the imagination of anyone observing it.

The pieces clearly express her appreciation for the unconventional with truly awe-inspiring forms. "I explore pattern by sketching combinations of shapes and how they will work together," she says. "I explore line and repetition as a way to build three-dimensional, moving art."

Once a student of designer Mary Lee Hu, while studying jewelry and metalsmithing at Seattle's University of Washington, Pankowski's orbital and somewhat skeletal pieces are influenced by Hu's modernist jewelry.

The jewelry features thin, overlapping metal lines that alternately resemble a beautiful link of small-scale birdcages, as well as single cages suspended from a gold chain. In other designs, the long twisting, intertwined curves resemble wreaths of barbed gold and silver wire. In many items, she implements moving, kinetic parts adding more surprise and intrigue.

The weighty, substantial look of her necklaces and bracelets are beautifully offset with delicate accents of Tahitian pearls, amethyst, or clear, art glass. Some of her pendants are more understated in construction but still feature sweeping gold or silver lines that curve back into the larger design to suspend a single gemstone resembling elegant, four-legged arachnids.

The artistry and detail are a marvel, and Pankowski enjoys the chance for observers to explore the jewelry's unique intricacies. "I don't want to explain what things are or to have my work to contain specific meaning," she acknowledges. "I'm really trying to make beautiful objects and I enjoy it if someone looks at my work and it reminds them of more than one thing."

Earlier this year, the World Gold Council displayed Pankowski's jewelry at its booth during JCK's Las Vegas tradeshow. Her phenomenal jewelry is featured in numerous exhibitions across the United States, including the Aaron Faber Gallery in New York, the Velvet da Vinci Gallery in California, and the Shaw Gallery in Maine.
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Photo 1 (top right): 18-Karat Gold Orbit Ring with Pearls
Photo 2 (bottom left): 18-Karat Gold Earrings with Pearl Accents

ABRASHA CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY

The idyllic backdrop surrounding Holland's Castle Wittem is welcoming and relaxing. The fortress, nestled within Geul Valley, is encompassed by a river, and serves as a hotel. Geniet van uw verblijf (enjoy your stay). Holland is also the birthplace of featured jewelry designer, Abrasha.

In my feature for Scottish designer Shona Macaulay Fidgett, I mentioned that minimalist, simple designs possess a special kind of power. It is a power that rests in the deceptive subtlety of its lines, curves, and strategic placement of stones. What can be overlooked when viewing this type of jewelry is the craftsmanship that goes into it.

"Even though all of my work has a strong sense of simplicity, most of my pieces are fairly difficult to make and require great skill," the California-based Abrasha acknowledges. A certified goldsmith, Abrasha creates geometric, sleek jewelry that highlight the influence of his mentor, German designer Klaus Ullrich.

Although he incorporates platinum and sterling silver in his creations unlike some of his German colleagues, Abrasha frequently implements 24- and 18-karat gold in most all of his pieces. This inclusion, in my opinion, provides more warmth.

Touching on something I spoke of in my post for Canadian designer Janis Kerman, I am intrigued that Abrasha's use of gold brings warmth and a hint of earthiness to forms that would otherwise possess much cooler, futuristic attributes if fashioned from silver or platinum.

His pieces emphasize spherical shapes and thin columns accented with a tiny single diamond or another somewhat larger, faceted gemstone. Though he implements unconventional items like carbon dioxide cartridges, he is selective about his choice of materials.

"I am a purist when it comes to my materials. I usually combine two or three different materials like CO2 cartridges or pachinko balls, and stainless or rusted steel to create tension between them and their colors," he explains."

He enlists two and three-dimensional computer programs "to work out the designs of my work," and is currently working on a project called "100 Pins." Of the project he says, "This is a work in progress. The goal is that all 100 pins will have specific parameters in common."

Since 1986, Abrasha's superlative artisanship has been honored with numerous awards including the American Jewelry Design Council's First Place Award, and the American Craft Council's Best of Show Award.

His quiet yet powerful, contemporary pieces are exhibited across the United States, including the Smithsonian American Art Museum's Renwick Gallery.
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Photo 1 (top right): 18-Karat Gold and Stainless Steel Saddle Ring
Photo 2 (bottom left): 18-Karat Gold, Stainless Steel, and Synthetic Ruby Balls

SAMANTHA WILLS

The hot, summer season will soon be underway in the Northern Territory of Australia so we make a point to stay in our rental car and suck up the AC. We are here to view one of the world's most sublime natural rock formations, Uluru (a/k/a Ayers Rock). Known as a land-based type of iceberg, the magnificent sandstone formation stands over 1,000 feet and looks like a red, burning ember. Australia is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Samantha Wills.

Many things inspire Wills; everything from slightly worn photos of her parents to the glossy, cosmopolitan images of fashion magazines to special moments with girlfriends is captured in some form through Wills' eclectic, beautiful jewelry.

Behind Wills' statuesque frame and flowing blond hair is a fiercely creative soul. Not one to idle her time away, Wills excelled at visual arts in high school, which led to making jewelry as a hobby.

Still in her late teens and brimming with ambitious interests, she attended Sydney's National Institute of Dramatic Art (NIDA), and the radio broadcast school Max Rowley Media Academy. Upon completing her studies, she accepted a position with Australia's Star FM radio station as radio personality, "Sami on the Street."

With her long, lean natural beauty, some felt Wills was better suited for modeling. Accordingly, Australian surf company Billabong signed her on as a model and the job opened up enormous opportunities for travel. With everything going on, Wills continued to make jewelry and at age 21, she decided to go full steam to set a foundation for a company.

The endeavor began modestly; each weekend she sold her handmade pieces at a market stall in Bondi Beach, Sydney. By 2004, a friend of Wills, who was involved with Australian Fashion Week, offered her a showroom wall. Eager to make sales, and gain some publicity for her jewelry, she accepted.

To her surprise, Wills wrote up a total of $17,000 worth of orders for her pieces. Today her company's headquarters is located in a two-story showroom in Alexandria, Sydney. Her collections are varied with vintage elements, Grecian symbolism, and 1970s flair. She accents designs with pewter, Czech, and Swarovski crystals, enamel, jade, and ceramic.

Pieces range from the simplistic elegance of items like her Songbird Coral Pendant to the more elaborate Empress Ring that features a beautiful, amber-colored stone set against the backdrop of a Victorian-inspired, gold filigree design.

Her jewelry's structure and arrangement is compelling reflecting any mood from light and easy to bold and independent. To me Wills' bronze Cleopatra Cuff evokes raw power while her multi-strand necklaces evoke the roaring 20s.

"My mother, her stylishness, the feel of an earlier time contributed to my design approach," she says. "I am really proud that my jewelry is not only true to my design ideas, but reaches back into my parent's history bringing the two together."
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Photo 1 (top right): Metallic Gold Filigree Empress Ring
Photo 2 (bottom left): Enchanted Cuff

YOKO IZAWA

Though not open to the public, the modest Imperial Palace of Tokyo, Japan is a lovely representation of centuries-old architecture with its coffered ceilings, parqueted floors, and gabled rooftops. The palace's storied history includes two fires, the first in 1873 and the other 72 years later in 1945. Japan is also the birthplace of featured jewelry designer Yoko Izawa.

Without doubt, jewelry design is a deeply thoughtful process; an exploration of what constitutes beauty. Through the eyes of a designer beauty can be a link of simple, crystal beads or unembellished matte gold.


Beauty can be a single, uncut lapis stone or a splatter of tiny diamonds. Beauty can be classic and simple, ornate, or unconventional. There seems to be no limit to what defines beauty in jewelry and of course, the designs of Izawa represent this concept.

Like Meiri Ishida's felt jewelry items, Izawa's use of colored, knitted nylon wrapped around polypropylene plastic gives her pieces that intriguing tactile textile element.

While Ishida's jewelry was partly an expression of whimsical humor, Izawa's design approach rests in structural ambiguity. She cites the non-descript arrangement of Japanese kimonos when not being worn, and the multi-faceted Shinto religion as influence.

"I feel that the sense of beauty and value within my culture molds my work," she says. "I feel more comfortable when the work has a quality of transience or ambiguity." In 2003, she received a Masters of Fine Art in Silversmithing, Goldsmithing, and Metalwork from London's Royal College of Art.


Izawa initially created jewelry with conventional materials. Creatively open she explored other materials appreciating the flexible, light characteristics of polypropylene plastic.

Izawa's Veiled Collection blends circular or oval-shaped cutouts of polypropylene, which are inserted inside small, tubular pieces of knitted nylon. Izawa implements a knitting machine, dye and a machine press to complete the creation process.

The blanketed, smooth curves and twists of Izawa's "ambiguous" polypropylene designs are at once otherworldly, ultramodern, and delicate. Though she cites vagueness as her design approach, there is also an element of familiarity.

Her creations are very fluid in their construction resembling objects in nature. The disc-shaped links in many of her necklaces and bracelets, for instance, are patterned after the soft forms of petals.

One necklace, called Discs, is not only the color of a green, Granny Smith Apple, but the manner in which the item is presented look exactly the way an apple peel curls as you cut it away from the apple.

Izawa's Clear Sphere Necklace seems to take on the floating, apparition-like appearance of small, linked jellyfish, while the delicate design of a teardrop-shaped neckpiece resembles an ethereal lantern or eternal flame.

Of her inventive, covered jewelry, Izawa says this, "My interest has been for some time in containing, wrapping, or covering things. My search was for something elusive," she explains. "The function and material nature of jewelry does not concern me as much as the presence and feeling of an object."

For additional info on Izawa's creation process, check out the London Crafts Council's YouTube video of the designer at work.
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Photo 1 (top right): Nylon Covered Polypropylene Petals Bracelet
Photo 2 (bottom left): Nylon Covered Polypropylene Neckpiece

DOROTHEA BRILL

Schwerin Castle in Germany is a remarkable landmark that dates back to the 12th century. Once a defensive stronghold, over the course of five centuries the structure has undergone several refurbishings and is presently a museum. Germany is also the home of featured jewelry designer Dorothea Brill.

German designer jewelry is renowned for its minimalist, contemporary attributes; clean lines, with little or no embellishment.

In my research however, I have found various design approaches including the elaborate granulation pieces of Cornelia Goldsmith to the avant-garde designs of Constanze Schreiber. Although no two designers' creations are the same, I have found their approach to design, the experimentation with materials and techniques, is the same.

Brill's jewelry can be categorized as conceptual or themed jewelry. Like fellow designer Michael Berger, she likes the "playful" aspect of jewelry creation. "Dealing with things in a playful manner has become the main thread of my work," she says. "Playfulness, to me, means staying on the risky path between seriousness and lightness, not allowing the work to become too serious or too trivial."

A graduate of Pforzheim University of Applied Sciences, and the Rhode Island School of Design, Brill's creations illustrate her openness to experimentation. There are her gold and stainless steel Propeller Rings with two intertwined, fan-shape discs extending from the area a gemstone would normally occupy.

There are nature-inspired pieces resembling straw, an interpretation of butterflies and flower petals. She implements 18-karat gold threads in her Roof, Terrace, Sun Rings adding a textile element, and lastly there is her Italian-style, mesh of tiny, gold loops creating her By the Meter Necklace.

"The most important thing in jewelry is liveliness," Brill explains. "It's possibility to carry fantasy and to evoke associations, and tempt the wearer away from conventional thinking welcoming them into a world of new ideas."

In 2001, Brill founded JUNI JEWELS, a jewelry company enlisting the expertise of five European designers, including Brill. The designers are, Claudia Geiger, Udo Jung, Patrick Malotki and Oliver Schmidt; they routinely exhibit their inventive work.

To see their sleek, contemporary pieces check out the company's PDF document.
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Photo 1 (top right): 18-karat Gold and Stainless Steel Propeller Rings
Photo 2 (bottom left): 18-Karat Gold By the Meter Earrings with Pave Diamonds

JANIS KERMAN DESIGN

With a beautiful, starry backdrop, it is impossible to miss the breathtaking silhouette of the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec, Canada. Perched atop a bluff above the St. Lawrence River, the grand hotel, designed by architect Bruce Price, once served as a meeting place between Franklin D. Roosevelt and Winston Churchill in 1943. Canada is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Janis Kerman.

What do you tend to notice first, shape or color? There are times I notice color more, other times it is shape, and sometimes it is both. Blending various shapes and colors are the basis of Kerman's beautiful, modern designs.

There was never anything blocking Kerman's path to jewelry design; the road was always clear to her. Thirty-four years ago, Kerman completed the studies required for her chosen trade, and in 1977, she established her company Janis Kerman Design.

She loves investigating her appeal for textures, form, and color. The look and feel of tree bark, the natural blue-green of the Mediterranean, the structure of rose and daisy petals; the world was a virtual playground for Kerman's senses.

"It's the balance not the symmetry that is important to me. Architecture, paintings, fashion, ceramics, I am inspired by both artistic and common objects," she says. "I am intrigued by the way shapes and colors work together."

She enjoys experimentation with unusual materials, and jewelry-making techniques that allow her to produce distinctive pieces. "My work is based on geometric shapes; the inherent strength, applicability, and timelessness command my respect."

Kerman's contemporary jewelry with its clean curves, angular lines and vibrant gemstones, reminded me a lot of Swedish designer Ulla Hornfeldt's creations. Kerman's designs, in my opinion, also resemble some Native American jewelry I have seen. Initially, I could not quite pinpoint just what aspect of Native American jewelry was similar.

I then recognized that her use of vivid, complementary colors within the architectural designs brings an earthy beauty to the pieces akin to Native American trinkets. I also realized that the use of sterling silver accents in Native American pieces provide that rustic aesthetic, while the gold accents in Kerman's jewelry added a modern edge.

I was really intrigued by this observation, since most modernist jewelry I have seen so far is fashioned from sterling silver, platinum, or even stainless steel. It is interesting how a simple exchange of material would ultimately transform the aesthetic of her pieces.

Kerman's gorgeous work has been exhibited in galleries in Canada, the United States, and Australia. Among those galleries are, Taboo Studio in California, the Katherine Kalaf Gallery in Australia, and the Canadian Guild of Crafts in Canada.
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Photo 1 (top right): Oxidized Sterling Silver/18-Karat Gold Brooch-Pendant Set with Peridot, Carnelian, Citrine, Topaz, and Aquamarine Stones
Photo 2 (bottom left): 18-Karat Gold/Oxidized Silver Earrings with Aquamarine and Black Mother of Pearl

HETTY HERMAN-MINSK

There are 5,000 acres to explore within Annadel State Park in California. We do not plan to cover it all, but we opt to view at least some of the expanse of meadows and a lake by horseback. California is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Hetty Herman-Minsk.

Minsk's list of artistic accomplishments is as impressive as her remarkably distinctive jewelry.

Acting as a delegate of the American Crafts Council (AMC), Minsk helped to reopen art colleges in China. She also traveled to Japan participating in an "international conference of craft persons."

For a little over 25 years, she taught silver jewelry making, weaving, and ceramics at the California State Community College, and the California State Adult Education Program. If that isn't enough, she formerly worked as a psychotherapist.

Like many jewelry artists, Minsk's creative interests formulated during childhood. "When I was a child a close friend of my mother gave me some clay," she recalls. "Ever since then I have been entranced with the possibilities of what the human hand can create." Working with textiles and ceramics eventually led Minsk to explore jewelry design.

During her jewelry studies, Minsk was introduced to environmentally sustainable silver precious metal clay (PMC). "I have chosen to use reconstituted silver recovered from computers, medical instruments, and photographic supplies," she explains. "My philosophy is one thing of beauty does not have to harm another."

The structure of Minsk's designs are completely free-from and organic resembling small-scale sculptures. Although she implements pearls and garnets to fashion a strand that suspends a pendant, she does not always place stones within the PMC making it the focal point.

The contrast of the pieces' rustic appearance and the almost imperceptible accents of gently etched drawings, and soft color in the PMC add an unusual elegance and refinement.

The jewelry possesses a commanding, ancient aesthetic that brings to mind remnants of the 6th century. "I am influenced by study and travel in Asia, as well as a deep appreciation and love for the world around me. I am delighted to share my joy and excitement at the forms and textures possible in silver precious metal clay."
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Photo 1 (top right): Blue Pearl Silver PMC Necklace with Pearl Clasp
Photo 2 (bottom left): Silver PMC Dragon Necklace and Hessonite Garnet Strand

MANOEL BERNARDES

Smack dab in the middle of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil is a centuries-old building known as the Paco Imperial Palace. Built in the 18th century, the magnificent Baroque structure served as a homestead for colonial governors. Brazil is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Manoel Bernardes.

Over the last 20 years or so, Brazil has made enormous strides in cultivating a thriving jewelry industry.

Not only is the country a virtual hive of the world's most spectacular gemstones, Brazilian designers are also gaining more prominence.

Bernardes learned about the jewelry and gemstone industry firsthand from his father, who founded Brazil's premier gemstone and jewelry association; and was also an exporter of Brazilian gemstones.

When his father died in 1975, Bernardes assumed the company's administrative duties bringing the corporation into the forefront of innovative jewelry design.

In the past, Brazilian jewelry designers often emulated European designs, but they are presently embracing their vivacious, spirited culture. "We [Brazil] have found our way. We have the freedom to create something that translates our national culture," Bernardes enthuses.

All of Bernardes' designs implement beautifully faceted quartz and chalcedony stones in a myriad of colors, and showcased in alternately bold and streamlined pieces.

The stones are prominent with their textured, fluid color looking like succulent lumps of candy suspended from gold or cushioned within a ring setting. Inspiration for the pieces range from the tattered, wooden planks of a tiny, makeshift bridge to the bold, festive colors of Brazil's Carnaval.

"We believe, above all, that the brand should interpret the most profound and true feelings of those who buy and wear our jewelry," he says, "This is what really matters. This is what lends meaning to our work."

Bernardes also employs up-and-coming Brazilian designers such as Glace Drumont, who won first place in the IBGM (Brazilian Institute of Gems and Precious Metals) Design Award in 2006 for a white gold bracelet with imperial topaz, and Heloisa Azevedo who won third prize for a yellow gold ring featuring an explosion of gemstones with accents of optic fiber.

For more photos of Bernardes' exquisite jewelry, check out Luxist.com.
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Photo 1 (top right): Unnamed Double Stone Gold Ring with Diamond Accents
Photo 2 (bottom left): Unnamed Gold and Diamond Drop Earrings with Floral Motif

ANNA HEINDL

The Botanical Garden of the University of Vienna in Austria houses an enormous collection of plants for research and conservation purposes. Research ranges from testing for bioactive substances to observation of Old World species. Austria is also the home of featured jewelry designer Anna Heindl.

In the jewelry industry, the country of Austria is world renowned as the location where, over a century ago, Daniel Swarovski established his superlative glass cutting company.

Since the company's inception, beautiful jewelry featuring prime, Austrian crystals has become a staple in jewelry designs from all over the world.

At the same time, however, not all Austrian jewelry artists implement Austrian crystals in their designs. One such designer is Heindl who is a graduate of Vienna's University of Applied Arts where she studied metal design.

Heindl's unique creations follow specific, nature-inspired themes from landscapes to horizons to the human ear. "My pieces are informed by themes that can preoccupy me for several years," she explains. "I am interested in human interventions in nature and the drawing of boundary lines."

The jewelry is an eclectic blend of unusual, conversation-making items that are also wearable. There is a ring design resembling a wrapped bouquet of flowers formed with thin, cylindrical pieces of 18-karat gold acting as stems while small, faceted gemstones seem to bloom from them.

Adding to the distinctive array is a bracelet made from a web of black lacquered silver holding a splatter of gemstones, and earrings resembling cutout, tiny gold receptacles.

Heindl's jewelry has been featured in numerous exhibitions in Holland, Austria, France, Japan, and the United States. At the present time, Heindl does not appear to have a website but you can view more of her creations at galerie-slavik.com.
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Photo 1 (top right): Loosely Woven Sterling Silver Bracelet with Black Lacquer, Gold and Amber
Photo 2 (bottom left): 18-Karat Gold Sonnensaphir Ring with Rubine, Sapphire, Beryl, and Mandarin Gemstones

MARIANNE ANDERSON

Today we visit one of Scotland's most prominent architectural structures, Stirling Castle. Situated upon a volcanic crag, and surrounded by steep cliffs, the castle maintains a foreboding, spectacular presence. Its fully functional amenities include artillery fortifications, The Great Hall, and a modern café. Scotland is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Marianne Anderson.

Creating ornamental objects and decoration within architecture has been around for centuries and is seen everywhere from India to Egypt. The intricate decoration has been replicated often in pottery, textiles, and wallpaper.

Anderson takes special interest in exploring the historical significance of this decorative style. "My interest is rooted in how we learn and draw from the past and return frequently to motifs, patterns, and designs of historic and symbolic significance," she says.

What I find particularly fascinating is that Anderson works with only four materials: freshwater pearls, red garnets, 18-karat gold, and oxidized silver. What may initially seem a limited range of creative options, Anderson's fantastic skill in cultivating varied designs quickly diminishes the notion of limitations.

Some items like her earrings and brooches resemble Victorian cast iron decorations I have seen on porch railing and chairs. Although the jewelry can be considered vintage, to me she gives it a more modern edge with her use of blackened silver. The overall result is highly distinctive, beautiful pieces.

"I love embracing the contrasts of order and disorder, the structural and the florid. I love taking a pattern and completely stripping it down into its components," she explains. "I love using ornaments in a scale that works with the human form."

Anderson recently held an exhibition at the London Craft Fair. Exhibitions for her unique jewelry have also been held in the United States, Switzerland, Japan, and Scotland.
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Photo 1 (top right): Oxidized Silver Fragment of Ornament Brooch with Trillion Garnet
Photo 2 (bottom left): Oxidized Silver Rosette Ring with 18-Karat Gold Accents

LYNN KELLY

Larnach Castle, and its surrounding grounds, is a breathtaking landmark of Dunedin, New Zealand. Built during the 18th century, no expense was spared for its construction. The magnificent structure's amenities were composed of Italian marble, English titles, and Venetian glass. New Zealand is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Lynn Kelly.

Nature-inspired jewelry is a trend that will not likely disappear anytime soon. Many designers implement beautiful floral and leaf motifs, or pattern the arrangement of gemstones in a way reminiscent of flora.

Still others like Kelly, and fellow New Zealander Tania Patterson, take this design approach to another level cultivating materials into literal interpretations of nature.

Educated in both New Zealand and Australia, Kelly channeled her voracious fascination with New Zealand landscapes through creating jewelry. She began creating jewelry 21 years ago working in both collaborative and personal studios. "I need a certain amount of time sharing ideas, talking and also some time alone concentrating and experimenting," she explains. A mixture of both is ideal."

Since gold is not readily available to many New Zealand designers, its absence encourages the use of unconventional materials like aluminum and rubber. Kelly is undaunted by this challenge, "I am delighted when I have had an idea for ages, and I finally find the right material to make a piece," she says. "The materials need to adequately embody the idea, in order to highlight the quality of the materials."

Her rose hips pendant is a stunner made with sterling silver, and a cluster of vibrant, crimson rose hips beads. She has replicated small, leaves in a beautiful wreath-like necklace made from aluminum with pearl accents.

In 2007, however, Kelly had the opportunity to work with gold after winning the Dowse Foundation's Gold Award competition wherein her sketch design was chosen.

The foundation provided her with $5,000 worth of gold to create the piece, a necklace blending a tall grass called Tussock and gold.

"Many contemporary jewelers are unable to be lavish with gold, because of its expense. It’s a shame really, because it's one of those precious metals that match the golden Otago landscape perfectly," she says.

Kelly does not appear to have a website at this time, but you can view more of her work at Fingers.com.
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Photo 1 (top right): Rose Hip Pendant with Rose Hip Beads, Sterling Silver, and Rubber Chord
Photo 2 (bottom left): Printed Aluminum Lacebark Necklace with Sterling Silver and Pearls

MICHAL NEGRIN

The Jerusalem Botanical Gardens in Israel is a sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Often overlooked, it is nestled away between a gas station and supermarket. The gardens house over 6,000 species of plants, a lake, 2 ponds, and a waterfall. Israel is also the home of featured jewelry designer Michal Negrin.

Visiting Negrin's beautiful website is like stepping into another world: fanciful, exploding color with familiar elements mixed in.

Like her website, Negrin's vintage-inspired jewelry astonishes with spectacularly feminine designs that are a testament to her lucid imagination.

Styles range from exotic and intricate with multi-colored Swarovski Crystals to a simple link of colored, glass beads.

Negrin's unique imagination developed in childhood while living on a communal farm in Israel. She used her fertile mind to create a world of unparalleled color, whimsy, and beauty. Although she relished opportunities to explore her creativity, she was sometimes reluctant to express this part of her.

Her mother, however, recognizing her daughter's gift, provided Negrin with encouragement. "My mother provided me with the tools to realize my dream, the strength to take risks, and the power to believe in myself and my designs."

Determined to realize her dreams, Negrin created and sold her jewelry clandestinely. The communal farm required that all occupants give any personal earnings to the community. She was able to establish her company with the proceeds she earned selling her pieces at a craft and arts market in Tel Aviv.

By age 31, with the support of her husband, Meir, Negrin opened a small store in Tel Aviv. Fascinated with the 1920s, many of her designs incorporate the aesthetic of this era, as well as the Victorian era. The pieces are a gorgeous combination of antique, Italian metal, lace, pearls, enameling, crystals, flower motifs, semi-precious stones, and even hand painted portraits of 1920s flappers.

The minute detail of each item is hand cultivated from the placement of crystals to the cutting of metal into flower forms. An aura of vitality permeates every piece.

It is literal eye candy with all of the gorgeous stones, and luminous color; it is a celebration of beauty, and the renewing spring season. "I love what I do. I revel in the evolution and the way the whole process comes together at the end," she says.

After 21 years, Negrin has stores in Australia, Japan, France, Mexico, Spain, and the United States.

She now employs over 160 artisans, and her clientele include the likes of Kate Beckinsale, Nicole Kidman, and Uma Thurman. Negrin also designs and creates clothing, greeting cards, figurines, and picture frames.

In 2007, actor Imelda Staunton wore a brooch and ring, designed by Negrin, in the feature film Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix. For more on Negrin and her company, check out a YouTube video at Break.com.
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Photo 1 (top right): Pink Floral Opera Ring with Pink and Fuchsia Swarovski Crystals
Photo 2 (bottom left): Victorian Floral Cameo Necklace in Pink and Green

TODD REED

The rustic beauty of the Denver Botanic Garden in Colorado is striking. The grounds are populated with plants from varied habitats like the Alpine, aquatic, arid and the Rocky Mountain regions. Colorado is also the home of featured jewelry designer Todd Reed.

At only 34-years-old, Reed is renowned for building his company firmly based in social conscience, and integrity.

His breathtaking jewelry is all hand fabricated; fashioned from recycled 18-karat gold, oxidized silver, and Reed's signature conflict-free, uncut, unpolished diamond cubes.

A self-taught goldsmith and metalsmith, Reed began designing and creating jewelry at age 17. His passion for the beauty of raw diamonds led him to a design aesthetic that challenged the status quo within the jewelry industry.

"My work using raw diamond cubes started as a way to question the idea of perceived value," he explains. "How value and perceived value relate to ideas of beauty and perfection."

Reed's choice was a bold, singular one at a time when the norm of fine jewelry was the use of faceted diamonds; but Reed held to his ideals.

"Some designers considered what I was doing a trend. I never looked at it as a trend. I love these stones and I have always felt this was a great alternative to the traditional diamond industry."

Reed is exceptionally gifted bringing an Old World quality to his pieces. His use of buttery yellow gold, raw diamonds and blackened silver gives his items a palpable aura of raw opulence and power. I really love how he blends archaic and modern aesthetics; the structure of the piece, the detailing, and arrangement of the materials is breathtaking.

In today's more environmentally conscious world, Reed has a strong following. "I didn't expect that my ideals would revolutionize this industry. Seventeen years ago I was only selling to collectors." He builds honest, forthright relationships with his clients who value his work's integrity.

He is also grateful for being able to do what he truly loves on his terms. "The work is extremely close to my heart," he enthuses. "My work continues to grow as I grow, and I am still inspired by most everything. Beauty and nature are endless inspiration."

Reed has received many awards for his groundbreaking designs including First Place for Gold Jewelry in Niche Magazine's award competition; the Niche Finalist Award; the Couture Design Award for Natural Color Diamonds; and the Veranda Art of Design Award.
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Photo 1 (top right): 22-Karat Gold Bracelet with Rough Rubies
Photo 2 (bottom left): 18-Karat Gold Ring with Rose Cut Diamonds and Raw Diamond Cubes

NAMU JEWELRY COLLECTION

We are awestruck by the incredible, ancient architecture of Seoul, Korea. There is the spectacular grounds of Kyongbokgung Palace consisting of over 500 buildings, which includes the Chongmyo Shrine. Korea is also the birthplace of featured jewelry designer, NaMu Cho.

Cho is a remarkably talented artist who works entirely with hand held tools to create his unique jewelry. With a Masters of Fine Arts in Silversmithing and Jewelry Design (received from Ohio's Bowling Green State University), his creations alternate between streamlined, and highly distinctive.

What sets Cho's jewelry apart is his use of two, centuries-old techniques: Damascus Steel, and Damascene.

Damascus Steel is a lamination technique used in ancient Persia whereby layers of "malleable" iron is welded with hardened steel; and Damascene is an intricate, inlay process that creates patterns through the use of thin, precious metal wires or sheets.

Cho also implements glowing 24-karat gold, and platinum wrapped over sterling silver to stunning effect. He mainly incorporates these materials, along with Damascus Steel, in his sleeker designs, while his sculptural brooches and necklaces are highlighted with exquisite, three-dimensional Damascene patterns.

Cho cultivates these remarkable, picturesque patterns with the use of tiny stakes, punches, hammers, and chisels. It is simply fantastic artistry with a magnificent blend of classic, understated, and avant-garde.

During his 23-year career, Cho's sublime artistic skill has not gone without recognition. In 2002, he won the Third Prize Award at Charlotte, North Carolina's American Craft Show.

In subsequent years, he has received the American Craft Show's Second Prize Award, in Baltimore, Maryland; the Philadelphia Museum of Art's The Touches Prize; and the Louis Comfort Tiffany Foundation Award.

Exhibitions of his work are plentiful in galleries across the United States, and Seoul, Korea. Among these galleries are Gallery-Bing, and Total Gallery in Seoul, New York's Aaron Faber Gallery, and New Mexico's Patina Gallery.
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Photo 1 (top right): 22-Karat Gold and Damascus Steel Ring with one Diamond
Photo 2 (bottom left): 24-Karat Gold and Damascus Steel Brooch with Diamonds

JOHN MEDEIROS

The otherworldly beauty of Giant's Causeway, off the coast of Northern Ireland, is shrouded in folklore. According to history, the path of hexagonal columns, running from the cliffs of the Antrium Plateau, were created after a volcanic eruption; however, legend says an Irish giant named Finn McCool built the structure as a passageway to Scotland. Ireland is also the birthplace of featured jewelry designer, John Medeiros.

There is a distinctive blend of masculine and feminine energy in Medeiros' jewelry, as well as varying cultural aesthetics.

The substantive quality of his signature knots and cable twists bring to mind a powerful Irish warrior, while the designs' inherent, lingering curves and colorful gemstones seems representative of an ethereal, Grecian goddess.

Medeiros' advent into jewelry design began at the tender age of twelve. After emigrating, with his parents, to the United States from Ireland, Medeiros worked part-time, after school at a jewelry company. The production of raw materials into items of great beauty made an unyielding impression on him.

In the years to follow, Medeiros moved into other positions within the company including manufacturing and engineering. In 1984, he established his own company, Tahoe Jewelry, acting as a manufacturer.

However, in 2000, he decided to include his own personal line, John Medeiros Jewelry Collections. "I've worked at every level, at first I was a manufacturer and then I started working with engineers. The designers would show me their designs and eventually I began to design myself."

Medeiros dedicated time and hard work to design and create his personal collections, which rival the look and durability of fine jewelry, sans the high-end price tag.

His creations, highly influenced by Old World artistry and craftsmanship, implement rhodium and 14-karat gold plating with a premium, lead-free, non-precious metal base blended with an array of multi-colored cubic zirconium and semi-precious stones.

His eight collections quietly highlight powerful symbolism of fertility, good fortune, and infinity within intricate detailing. "The thing that most inspires me are the raw materials--the alloy base, the cubic zirconium--I know what the materials can do. I know the inherent qualities, and suddenly I'll start sketching," he says.
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Photo 1 (top right): Rhodium Plated Peridot Bracelet
Photo 2 (bottom left): 14-Karat Gold and Rhodium Plated Cable Twist Five-Strand Bracelet

BAO BAO WAN FINE JEWELRY

Over 2,000 types of trees and 500 species of flower make up part of the extraordinary collection of plants within the Beijing Botanical Garden in China. There are plenty of exhibition areas to view including a rose garden, an herb garden, and a tree and peony garden. China is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Bao Bao Wan.

At first glance, Wan's waif-like proportions and delicate features are a direct contrast to the power and gravity of her astonishing jewelry. Nevertheless, her dainty exterior betrays an ironclad will, and steely ambition.

The daughter of a government minister and the granddaughter of Wan Li, the former Vice Premier, and Chairman of the National People's Congress, Wan grew up during a period when Chinese women were groomed to forego their personal aspirations.

Today's China, with its ever-changing socio-economic landscape, is a decidedly different scenario. "I live in Asia where girls peak in their 20s, then they are picked by the men for marriage and a woman's life is over," she acknowledges. "I hate it."

Although emotional and outspoken on the topic of China's treatment of its women, she embraces the current winds of change; and she maintains a deep-set love for her country despite its flaws. "My country is strong and powerful. I have always been proud of my country," she assures. Her jewelry is a stunning representation of the lives of women before her, including her mother, intermingled with her own.

Many items from her L'Amour Paradoxal Collection feature beautiful symbolic, gold and diamond replicas of butterflies and bamboo. "The ephemeral butterfly is a Chinese girl expected to accept the solid bamboo, which can never change," she explains. "Every piece of my jewelry represents me and a generation of Chinese women who are fragile yet very bold."

Her jewelry also resonates with childhood memories of Beijing autumns and Chinese architecture. Having once considered employment as both a bus conductor, and a lawyer Wan chose jewelry design for its capacity to provide beauty as well as inspire others to follow their dreams as she had.

With a gemology degree, received from the Gemological Institute of America, and a photographer's eye for detail, Wan established her company Bao Bao Wan Fine Jewelry three years ago. She creates exquisite pieces with gold and opulent gemstones like emeralds, South Sea Pearls, and sapphires.

Her French-titled collections--a nod to her French literature studies and time lived in Paris--add a touch of romance and elegance. Her La Coquetterie Collection features an evocative single, vine flower pod.

In one item, the stem coils protectively around the textured, gold surface of a cuff bracelet while the flower pod rests prominently against it. In other designs, the flower pod seems almost melancholic in its somewhat languid depiction.

Wan loves the timeless quality of jewelry as well as its capacity to provide her with a creative and emotional outlet. "My jewelry reflects my complex personality and life experiences," she says. "I am strong and independent yet fragile and sensitive. Each piece is a metaphor for the modern woman."
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Photo 1 (top right): Diamonds and Gold Earrings from the La Feuilles Dan Le Vent de Pékin Collection
Photo 2 (bottom left): Black Diamond and Gold Bangle from the La Coquetterie Collection

SHABNAM BAHMANIAN

Today we walk along Eram Street within the Botanical Garden of Shiraz University in Iran. Rich with a storied history, beautiful flora, and architecture, our stay is fascinating indeed. Iran is the ancestral home of featured jewelry designer Shabnam Bahmanian.

A fascinating aspect of jewelry is, unlike other accessories and even clothing; it can stand the test of time. Jewelry artifacts dating back 10,000 years were recently unearthed in Iran and are now on display in many museums.

Like many countries, jewelry was--and is--an important part of Iranian culture for both men and women. Great artisanship, evocative symbolism, and outstanding gems are all cornerstones of Iranian jewelry.

A graduate of California College of Arts, with a BFA in Jewelry and Metal Arts, Bahmanian draws from her heritage, as well as the whole of Asian culture, to create incredible, standout jewelry. Her sublime goldsmithing skills result in uniquely cultivated pieces that are both edgy and exotic.

Working mainly with an array of metals that include gold, silver, and copper, Bahmanian adds texture to her often sculpture-like pieces and oxidizes some metals that beautifully enhance the overall design.

The East Bay, California native dispenses her creative energy through cooking, painting, and making ceramic pottery. She has been designing jewelry for seven years, and is a member of the Society of North American Goldsmiths.
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Photo 1 (top right): Gold Mesh Earrings
Photo 2 (bottom left): Unnamed Oxidized Earrings

JORGE REVILLA

There is some fantastic architecture to see in Barcelona, Spain, one such building is the Casa Batlló. Designed by architecture Antoni Gaudi, and built over a century ago, it is known for its distinctive skull-like balconies, and bone-like pillars. Spain is also the home of featured jewelry designer, Jorge Revilla.

The offspring of silversmiths, Revilla fell in love with the time-honored craft and the metal itself while a young boy. As a young adult, he studied fashion and design in both Spain and London.

An ardent traveler, Revilla spent time in a myriad of countries relishing the beauty of each country's natural resources.

For several years, he began collecting gemstones like turquoise and smoky quartz from each country he visited. By age 26--in 1996--Revilla established his company Jorge Revilla with the help of his sister, Gloria.

Revilla's elegant, streamlined jewelry blends the beloved craft and metal of his youth with the beautiful, pastel-colored gemstones of his world travels. His designs are feminine, dainty almost demure in their understated structure, while also possessing a tangible sexiness.

Revilla's fascination with sterling silver runs deep as he loves its malleability and though normally considered cool in tone, he believes silver is warmer than gold. He and his sister pay close attention to details, making sure each item undergoes their personal, final inspection.

A year ago, Revilla held his first American tradeshow at the JCK Vegas Show. He was blown away by the response. "There was a great energy when we showed the collection. It far exceeded any expectations," he says. "I couldn't believe the response. We knew then that the U.S. market was our next area of growth."

Subsequently, Revilla collaborated with Pollack Design Group, a distributor helping to broaden the sale of the designer's wares in the United States.

Revilla's lovely creations are also sold in France, Germany, and Spain, and he has exhibited his collections at tradeshows in New York, Japan, Mexico, Italy, and Switzerland.

To view items from Revilla's collections, check out ziamoda.com.
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Photo 1 (top right): Coral Necklace of Rectangles and Ovals
Photo 2 (bottom left): Dangling Tourmaline and Rose Quartz Earrings

CLEANING YOUR JEWELRY

Keeping your jewelry clean is very important to its longevity whether it is fine or costume. For this month's Splendor Sidebar outlined below are inexpensive, at-home treatments for cleaning both fine and costume jewelry.

In cases of deeply set, stubborn grime or tarnish, fine jewelry in particular should be taken to a professional jewelry cleaner.

Though jewelry can be cleaned at home with store bought jewelry cleaners, it is important to read the product's ingredients. Harsh, abrasive components like ammonia, vinegar, acids, and alcohol can severely damage jewelry items.

In using homemade cleaning solutions, the first thing to keep in mind before cleaning fine jewelry is whether any fragile or porous stones are a part of the design. Turquoise, opals, and pearls are very delicate requiring individual attention.

It is best to know how to clean the stones and use the specific cleaning technique on the metal as well. For example, a warm solution of mild, soapy water is recommended for cleaning pearls and this same solution can be used to clean gold accents of which the pearls are a part.

It is best to either immerse a jewelry cloth or soft, toothbrush into a gentle, soapy solution and clean individual stones by carefully wiping or brushing the stone.

The stone should then be rinsed and buffed dry with a dry jewelry cloth. Warm, soapy solutions are recommended for use on diamonds and most other gemstones.

For solid gold jewelry, dust should first be carefully removed with a clean, soft jewelry cloth, cotton or flannel cloth. Afterwards, soak the piece for 1-3 minutes in a solution of warm water and baby shampoo.

While still wet, remaining grime can be removed using a soft, toothbrush, rinse thoroughly in warm water and soak up excess moisture with the jewelry cloth. If the items are not completely free of moisture, the finish will look dull.

To remove tarnish from unembellished sterling silver jewelry requires a little bit more elbow grease. First, make sure you follow the next steps in a well-ventilated area. You will need a large bowl, aluminum foil, baking soda, and hot water.

Line the sides of the bowl with foil. Place the jewelry pieces inside the bowl and cover the items with a layer of baking soda until almost covered. Pour hot water over the baking soda and jewelry making sure not to breathe in fumes then wait for the baking soda to stop bubbling. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a jewelry cloth.

If your silver is heavily tarnished, you will have to repeat these steps 5-6 times, or use a silver cleaning paste. For more info on cleaning silver jewelry with paste, check out the how-to video at realsimple.com.

It is trickier to determine the best form of cleaning for costume jewelry. Unlike fine jewelry, many jewelers believe costume jewelry should not be cleaned with soapy water solutions; but according to my research, there is some debate on whether to use store bought jewelry cleaners.

As stated earlier, it is imperative to check the label for harsh ingredients as well as usage recommendations. Jewelry cleaners suited for specific metals like chrome, stainless steel, or aluminum should be used on that item.

As a rule of thumb, if your costume jewelry contains a combination of stones and metals, and you know which of the stones or metals is most fragile, use a jewelry cleaner that is safe for this specific part. The cleaner can then be used to clean the entire piece.

However, some jewelers believe it best to clean gold-plated and gold-filled items with a dry jewelry cloth only. Some jewelers say that items plated with 24-karat gold are more durable and requires only dusting with a soft cloth. In the end, when in doubt it is best to consult the company that manufactured a costume piece or its designer for cleaning instructions.

The next question is, how often should jewelry be cleaned? This will depend on how often you wear a piece. If you wear the same piece of jewelry daily, it should be cleaned weekly. Jewelry worn only on occasion, for special events, should be cleaned after each use.

It is also important to store jewelry properly after cleaning. It is best to keep pieces separate in separate boxes or pouches to keep from scratching.

SARAH DAVIDA

Today we visit the homey and cozy North Duchess Botanical Garden in New York. Within the 70-acre grounds are eight greenhouses and an array of plants and perennials to learn about, and even take home. New York is also the hometown of featured jewelry designer, Sarah Davida Beinstein.

Rings are perhaps one of the more evocative jewelry items as significant meaning is attached to whichever finger someone chooses to wear it, including the thumb.

For instance wearing a ring on the index finger is associated with power, and authority, while a ring worn on the middle finger is associated with one's life purpose. Of course, some may opt to wear a ring on a non-traditional finger to go against convention asserting their individuality.

Seemingly taking a cue from a Celtic ring style, Beinstein specializes in creating custom-made cuff rings to be worn on any finger in the space between the knuckle and top of the finger. The idea for these unique rings came three years ago while Beinstein studied metalsmithing at Syracuse University.

She wanted to accessorize the top portion of the finger with something that encircled this area much like a cuff bracelet encircles the wrist. She then made one for herself, which garnered plenty of attention from friends and schoolmates.

Beinstein then began creating rings for fellow students and friends personalizing the rings with a nickname, inspirational messages, small drawinga, and even the phrase "Oh Snap". The inscriptions Bernstein uses were provided by the people making requests for the rings, and at this point she seriously considered building a company from her signature item.

Just four months ago, after graduation, Beinstein established Sarah Davida, with different themed sterling silver and 10-karat gold ring collections.

In the months to come, she plans to add more accessories as well as a clothing line. As beautiful as traditional rings are, I really like the uniqueness of Bernstein's rings. They are fun, youthful, and edgy and definitely invite scrutiny from curious observers.
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Photo 1 (top right): Sterling Silver Oh Snap Cuff Ring
Photo 2 (bottom left): Guitar Player Wearing Cuff Ring

SI COLLECTIONS

Just one look at the towering glass and steel greenhouse, which houses a simulated rain forest, we instantly know that Taiwan's Taichung Botanical Garden will be a great adventure. Once inside we are met with a miniature replica of Orchid Island, over 80 plant species, and an amazing aquarium brimming with exotic fish from the Amazon. Taiwan is also the birthplace of featured jewelry designer, I-nan Chen.

To say that Chen, who presently lives in Canada, is bursting with creative energy is an understatement. Like fellow designer Elke Kramer, Chen is a vibrantly inventive person, with predilections for fashion and architecture.

In the vein of Kramer, he chose varied outlets like photography, drawing, and graphic design to unleash his fertile imagination. Also like Kramer, Chen eventually chose a career in jewelry design recognizing that the medium allowed him to channel all of his passions into one outlet.

In establishing his company, Si Collections, it was--and still is--important to Chen to create not only classic, modern pieces but also jewelry that lifts the wearer's spirit and senses. "When a woman puts on one of my designs, I want them to feel enlightened," he explains. "I believe this will make the wearer and my jewelry shine brighter."

Chen fashions his beautiful designs from 14-karat gold-filled metal, and soft, pastel-colored gemstones. The liquid transparency of stones like citrine, peridot, and tourmaline, create an ethereal quality like luminous beads of light dangling from a golden link.

His designs are simple but not plain. I think it is important that I make that distinction. The breathtaking arrangement of the items seems effortless in execution, and is a striking embodiment of femininity.

Chen shows no lack of confidence in his ability to accentuate a woman's beauty. "Design ideas and inspiration come from all sources," he says, "My sense of style and knowledge of color allows me to create something stunning. I definitely know what looks good on a woman," he enthuses. "I put my heart into each item."

Chen's ethereal designs are sold through the Baltimore Museum of Art in Maryland, the Portland Art Museum in Oregon, The Alamo Museum in Texas, Lici Jewelry in Taiwan, and The Jade World in Canada.
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Photo 1 (top right): 14-Karat Gold-Filled and Citrine Seeking Stars Earrings
Photo 2 (bottom left): 14-Karat Gold-Filled and Lemon Quartz and Peridot Spring in Central Park Pendant

CHRISTOPHE BURGER

Today we explore the Castle of Florac, a former salt loft during the French Revolution, in south-central France. Surrounded by the lovely Cévennes National Park, the castle serves as the park's information center. France is also the home of featured jewelry designer Christophe Burger.

Burger is another prime example of a designer with distinctive, varied interests. A linguist and scholar of English Literature, Burger explored his creative aspirations studying goldsmith and jewelry design over 30 years ago at France's Strasbourg School of Applied Arts.

In 1977, he set up his workshop, Heliodor, and participated in the European Watch, Clock, and Jewellery Fair in Basle, France from 1980 to 1993.

Burger's modern design approach caught the attention of Finnish jewelry designer, Björn Weckström. In 1989, Burger accepted a designing position with Weckström's company Lapponia Jewelry Oy where he continues to work. By 1994, Burger would close his own workshop.

Weckström's curvaceous almost cream-like designs provide an interesting contrast to Burger's more angular and geometric gold and silver pieces. His signature is placing small fissures and cracks along the surface of his pieces adding visual depth and texture.

He also designs beautiful eternity bands called Anô Rings for the company's Eterno Collection. Burger's overall philosophy regarding jewelry is this, "Wearing jewelry is a specific way to express individuality," he says, "Every human being has a need to be recognized as an individual."

While employed with Lapponia Jewelry, Burger established Corpus in 1992, serving as Vice President. Named for the city in France, Corpus is a group that "brings together European jewelry designers to reflect on the jewel-object."

Burger loves implementing special monikers for his creations opting for something that conveys a message. "Jewelry is a non-verbal message to the wearer and to others who see the jewelry. The message is unique and universal yet always refers to our humanity."

Burger's numerous awards include the Insolites prize from the De Beers Jewellery Design Competition in 1979; the Professional Artists' Regional Prize, and the World Gold Corporation's Jewellery Design Award for Best Gold Design in 1980.
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Photo 1 (top right): 18-Karat Yellow Gold Anô Homme Ring
Photo 2 (bottom left): 18-Karat Yellow Gold Eariads Earrings

MANJU JASTY

We are in Delhi, India today taking an interesting journey through the Jantar Mantar observatory. Built by Raja Jai Singh II nearly three centuries ago, the unique observation post houses astronomical devices structured from lime, and marble, the largest being a giant sundial called the Samrat Yantra (Supreme Instrument). India is also the birthplace of featured jewelry designer Manju Jasty.

I spoke of destiny in another post citing how fascinating it is to witness it playing out. I stated how intriguing it is to observe the manner in which life experiences can bring a person or people to a particular place at a particular point in time.

Raised in a country overflowing with spectacular architecture, art, and needlework, it is no wonder that Jasty's career path ultimately veered towards jewelry design. Even the meaning of Jasty's first name, "jewel box" revealed her life's destiny. Jasty, however, first explored other interests.

A graduate of New York University's Stern School of Business, Jasty enjoyed a successful, 10-year career working as an investment banker for Barclays Capital. Nevertheless, the sumptuous ornaments of her homeland were never far away. In fact, in her spare time she spent hours deconstructing, and reconstructing heirlooms she owned.

She then began to make personal items once a year, which drew admiring gazes from friends, family, and colleagues. This pastime led Jasty to seriously consider a change in careers.

"Though my personal style is considerably toned down in comparison, inspiration for my work comes from the architecture of Indian palaces, and elaborate textiles," she says. "The maharajas bejeweled every part of their bodies, and their houses, even their weapons were studded with emeralds and rubies."

Implementing such items as 18-karat yellow gold, Tahitian and South Sea pearls, rubies, diamonds, and Japanese coral, Jasty designs elegant jewelry.

Though only a few pieces are featured on her website, the items are a blend of contemporary and traditional aesthetics with sparkling pavé diamonds, or a cluster of another breathtaking stone providing texture, gravity, and color.

In 2005, a chance meeting with Barneys New York's fashion director and VP, Julie Gilhart, provided the stepping-stone Jasty needed for exposure. She subsequently sold a small collection to the retailer and never looked back.
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Photo 1 (top right): 18-Karat Yellow Gold Peacock Bangle with Pave Diamonds
Photo 2 (bottom left): 18-Karat Yellow Gold Cylindrical Band with Rose Cut Diamonds

MICHAEL BERGER GOLDSMITH

Today we find ourselves captivated by the beauty of South African vineyards located north of Cape Town. We stop in Stellenbosch, one of the country's oldest villages, to visit the Village Museum as well as sample some wine and great food. South Africa is also the birthplace of featured jewelry designer, Michael Berger.

The term kinetic, as defined in the study of physics, is dynamic energy created through the forced movement of objects. Mechanics is an important element of Berger's innovative designs, an aspect that adds a "fourth dimension."

In 1987, Berger relocated to Münster, Germany to begin an apprenticeship as a goldsmith. Five years later, he accepted a position in Düsseldorf, Germany as Workshop Supervisor for renowned goldsmith Friedrich Becker who became Berger's mentor and invented what is known as kinetic jewelry; jewelry with moving parts. By 1999, Berger, now a master goldsmith, established his own company, Michael Berger Goldsmith, in Düsseldorf.

Highly influenced by his mentor, Berger actively explored creating wearable kinetic forms. Implementing stainless steel, and 18-karat white and yellow gold, Berger specializes in sculptural, modern ring designs with clean, sleek lines.

The hidden surprise lies within the structure of imperceptible bearings located at the top section of the rings. When the wearer moves his or her hand, the bearings engage causing the top section to move. "There is certainly a playfulness involved in designing kinetic jewelry," he says.

Berger also designs "static" rings without moving parts incorporating beautiful gemstones like citrine, peridot, tourmaline, pearls, and diamonds. Both his static and kinetic creations are designed to stand upright on a flat surface.

In 2004, Berger received the North-Rhine Westphalia's jewelry prize, and one year later received the Bochum Design Prize. In 2007 and 2008, Berger's jewelry for men was honored with the Tahitian Pearl Trophy.

Click here to see a display of one of Berger's kinetic rings in action!
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Photo 1 (top right): 18-Karat Yellow and White Gold Kinetic Ring
Photo 2 (bottom left): 18-Karat Yellow Gold Ring with Tahitian and Akoya Pearls from the Static Jewelry Collection

FRANCISCO SANCHEZ

Today we are off the eastern coast of Mexico taking in the beautiful sights of the Isle of Cozumel, and there are plenty of cool ways to explore the island's beautiful coral reefs. There is snorkeling, diving, and even kayaking. We learn that Cozumel is also the location of the San Gervasio Ruins, one of the largest remaining Mayan ruins on the island. Mexico is also the hometown of featured jewelry designer Francisco Sanchez.

A second-generation jeweler, Sanchez always found artistic expression fascinating. His father's creative example and Aztec pictograms became a great source of inspiration. "Thanks to my father's influence, I began this beautiful occupation at a very early age," he recalls.

"My studies in painting, sculpture, architecture, and jewelry helped to form a part of my life. I very much like the ideas from our ancestors. I love using different pre-Hispanic pictorial motifs."

Sanchez set up his workshop 41 years ago after studying foreign trade in Holland. He quickly established himself as a designer of unique talent, and staying power. "I have exhibited my work in the United States, Taipei, Vancouver, Munich, and other countries. Among the many awards I have received for my work, one is the Jalisco Award in Jewelry Design."

Sanchez' lovely arrangement of beautiful stones like turquoise and malachite combined with cool sterling silver is a visual language blending modern Hispanic and ancient Aztec iconography; a modern story within an ancient one.

He takes ancient, nature motifs such as his Rain Frogs Jewelry Set that blends amphibious forms of silver surrounded by the green and apricot colors of amber and turquoise.

His distinctive, sterling silver Aztec Seashell Earrings feature an unusual cutout design inspired by a seal. "I am always looking for something different to incorporate into my ideas, striving to be at the vanguard in the styles with which I deal."

Sanchez creates his jewelry prototypes, cleans, polishes, and purifies them. His final touch is inscribing the word Citlali into the finished piece. The word means `star' and his motivation behind it is to inspire the wearer.

"This way everyone wearing my designs has a star to accompany them." Sanchez' beautiful jewelry is sold at Novica.com.
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Photo 1 (top right): Amber and Turquoise Honeybee Necklace and Earring Set
Photo 2 (bottom left): Sterling Silver Tree of Life Cuff Bracelet